Retinol: what it does to the skin and how to use it without causing irritation

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Retinol is one of the most studied active ingredients in skincare: a vitamin A derivative, it works on wrinkles, texture, dark spots, and blemishes. However, not all skin tolerates it equally, and like any retinoid, it can cause dryness and irritation.

It's not an ingredient to fear: it's a powerful active that needs to be understood, respected, and used in the right amount. And for those who can't tolerate it, there are alternatives backed by solid evidence. Let's look at how it works, how to introduce it without causing damage, and when it makes sense to choose another option.

In brief: retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging actives, but it's not the only option. If your skin doesn't tolerate it, or you'd rather avoid it, there are formulas that target firmness and signs of aging without retinoids: Alba is a firming face cream without retinol, featuring olive stem cells and grape extract. Explore all the options in our anti-aging facial treatments.

What is retinol and why does it work?

“Retinol” refers to a family of molecules related to vitamin A—the retinoids—which includes retinol itself, its esters such as retinyl palmitate, and more direct forms such as tretinoin, a prescription medication.

Retinoids work through a receptor-mediated mechanism: they influence epidermal proliferation and differentiation, collagen production, and melanin distribution. Essentially, they speed up cell turnover, the natural renewal process that slows with age and leaves skin looking duller and more marked.

Retinol, pro-retinol, and retinaldehyde: what's the difference?

Different names appear on packaging, and they don't refer to the same molecule. All forms must be converted by the skin into retinoic acid, the only form that actually acts on the receptor: the more conversions required, the gentler and less potent the active ingredient.

• Retinol esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate), often called pro-retinol on labels: a more stable and better-tolerated form, but it requires three conversions. This is the starting point for anyone who has never used a retinoid.
• Retinol: two conversions. It’s the most widely used cosmetic compromise between proven effectiveness and tolerability.
• Retinaldehyde: just one conversion. It works faster than retinol and is generally better tolerated than prescription retinoids.
• Tretinoin, or retinoic acid: no conversion needed, but it’s a medication and should only be used under medical guidance.

Switching from a pro-retinol to retinol or retinaldehyde means increasing the intensity, not changing the mechanism. So the gradual approach described below applies at every step, even if you’ve been using retinoids for a long time.

What to expect, and when

• Radiance: this is the first effect you notice, because skin freed of dead cells reflects light better.
• More even texture: skin texture smooths out and pores look less noticeable.
• Fine lines softened: a real improvement in lines caused by photoaging, not their complete removal.
• More even tone: sun spots and post-acne marks gradually fade.

It takes time: the first visible differences appear after around 8-12 weeks, while results in collagen production take months.

Retinization: the adjustment period

At first, your skin may react with dryness, tingling, redness, or peeling. It’s not an allergy: it’s retinization, the phase when your skin adapts to an accelerated renewal cycle.

How to introduce it without causing damage: two nights a week for the first two weeks, then every other night. After a month, you can increase the frequency, and if redness appears, take one step back. For very reactive skin, the “sandwich” method works well: moisturizer, retinol, moisturizer — it slows absorption without canceling out the benefits.

Two non-negotiable rules: retinol is used only at night, and it is photosensitizing, so sunscreen the next day is essential. Using it without SPF means taking one step forward and three steps back.

Avoid using these on the same evening: AHA and BHA exfoliating acids and harsh scrubs. Retinol should be paired with moisturizers and soothing ingredients, not other stimuli.

When retinol isn’t the right choice

Not all skin types tolerate it. It is not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding, should be used with great caution on rosacea and couperose, and may worsen rather than improve the condition of sensitive skin with an already compromised barrier.

Bakuchiol: what the data says

Extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, bakuchiol is the most studied alternative. A 2018 randomized clinical study compared the two actives over twelve weeks: both significantly reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, but the bakuchiol group reported far fewer side effects - less burning and less peeling.

Bakuchiol is not photosensitizing, so it can also be used in the morning, always with sun protection.

The LeLang choice: why we don’t formulate with retinol

It’s worth saying openly: you won’t find retinol products in the LeLang range. Not because it doesn’t work - the evidence is solid - but because we’ve chosen a different path.

Our products are distributed through pharmacies and para-pharmacies and are often used by people with reactive or mature skin, or skin undergoing hormonal changes, where the skin barrier is already under stress. In that context, an active that requires weeks of adjustment and strict discipline with sun protection is often the best way to make people abandon their routine.

So let’s work toward the same goals with actives that are better tolerated:

• Biomimetic peptides, starting with Matrixyl, act as cellular signals for collagen synthesis, without irritation or photosensitization.
• Mandelic acid supports cell turnover with the largest and best-tolerated molecule among the alpha hydroxy acids.
• Niacinamide works on skin tone, redness, and the skin barrier at the same time.

This isn’t an argument against retinol. If you use it and tolerate it well, keep going: it’s an excellent active ingredient. This article is here to help you use it correctly — and to tell you what to do if your skin can’t tolerate it.

The supporting routine

If you’ve chosen to use retinol, these three steps reduce the risk of irritation.

Oil-based cleansing

Cleanse the skin while keeping its hydrolipidic film intact. A cleansing oil dissolves makeup and impurities without leaving your skin feeling tight.

Soothing ingredients and skin barrier support

Thermal water, panthenol, bisabolol, and aloe vera help keep sensitivity under control during the first few weeks.

Sun protection, without exception

It’s the step that makes everything else worthwhile.

Frequently asked questions

What does retinol do to the face?

It speeds up cell turnover and stimulates collagen production. The result is brighter skin with a more even texture, softened fine lines, and less noticeable dark spots. The first visible changes appear after 8-12 weeks of consistent use.

Should retinol be used every day?

No, especially at first. Start with two evenings a week for the first two weeks, then every other evening. Only after a month or more, if your skin responds well, should you consider using it daily. Increasing use too quickly is the mistake that leads people to give up on the product.

What are the contraindications of retinol for the face?

It is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Use with caution if you have rosacea, couperose, active dermatitis, or a compromised skin barrier. It also causes photosensitivity, so daily sun protection is essential. If in doubt, consult a dermatologist.

Is retinol or peptides better?

They work in different ways. Retinol speeds up cell turnover and has the largest body of accumulated evidence, but it requires an adjustment period and diligent sun protection. Signal peptides such as Matrixyl, on the other hand, signal fibroblasts to produce new collagen: results are slower, but they are much better tolerated and don't cause photosensitivity. They can be used together in well-designed routines, with the retinoid at night and peptides in the morning; for reactive skin, it's best to start with peptides.

What can you use instead of retinol during pregnancy?

Pregnancy is a time to pause retinoids, but you don't need to give up an active skincare routine. Bakuchiol, biomimetic peptides, niacinamide, vitamin C, and azelaic acid are still options. Azelaic acid is often used during this stage to treat hormonal melasma. You can resume retinol after breastfeeding, starting again at the initial frequency.

What should you apply to your face after retinol?

A moisturizing, soothing cream with ceramides, panthenol, or niacinamide. Avoid exfoliating acids, scrubs, and acidic forms of vitamin C on the same evening. The next morning, apply broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Does bakuchiol really work like retinol?

Available studies show comparable results for wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with significantly better tolerability. However, there is much less research on bakuchiol than on retinol, which remains the active ingredient with the largest body of accumulated evidence.