Retinol the king of anti-aging: benefits, use, and alternatives

One of the absolute stars in the world of skincare, retinol is a unique ingredient, capable both of exfoliating and having an effect against blemishes, aging, and above all balancing sebum. It is a derivative of Vitamin A often used in cosmetics in its pure form, but it is not tolerated by all skin types in the same way and, like all retinoids, it can cause skin issues, including dryness and irritation.

The truth? Retinol is not a monster; it is simply an extremely powerful ingredient that must be understood, respected, and, above all, dosed. And if it really isn’t for you, nature has given us some surprising alternatives worth sharing. Scientific advances in cosmeceuticals have allowed the development of many natural alternatives to pure retinol, a very complex yet indispensable ingredient in skincare. Retinol remains one of the most studied anti-aging and blemish-fighting actives in cosmetology. Let’s see what it is, how it works on the skin, and especially which plant-based alternatives are equally valid and how to use it to minimize irritation and maximize benefits.

What is retinol (and why does it work)

When we talk about retinol in skincare, we mean a family of molecules related to Vitamin A, the retinoids, which include retinol and its esters, such as retinyl palmitate/retinyl acetate, etc., as well as more direct forms like tretinoin, a medicine also used for acne treatment.

When you apply a cream or serum with retinol, you are not just "nourishing" the surface. You are sending a precise message to the deeper cells because retinoids mainly act through a receptor mechanism and gene regulation, influencing epidermal proliferation and differentiation, extracellular matrix (collagen), oxidative stress, and pigmentation. Retinol, in fact, has the unique ability to speed up cell turnover, that is, the natural renewal of the skin. As the years go by, this process slows down drastically, which is why the skin looks dull and marked, and retinol intervenes here, giving a "boost" to the regeneration engine.

As an active form of Vitamin A, retinol is useful for cell regeneration, collagen production, and overall optimal skin health. In many cosmetic forms, retinol is also used to remove dead cells, thus exfoliating and improving collagen and elastin synthesis. In practice, retinol works in the dermis to stimulate collagen production, the framework that keeps the face firm and compact. That’s why it is not just an anti-wrinkle but a true global refiner: it affects texture, brightness, spots, and even pores.

The stimulation of epidermal renewal, improvement in melanin distribution, and support for the quality of the dermal matrix are the benefits of consistent retinol use, especially after weeks and months of use. To avoid irritation and dryness, often instead of using pure retinol, it is replaced with natural retinol-like alternatives such as bakuchiol, a powerful antioxidant derived from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant.

What happens visibly when you use retinol?

If you have the patience to get through the first weeks, the results will be evident. But what exactly should you expect when looking in the mirror?

• Skin that is radiant again: the first thing many notice is the brightness. Since retinol removes surface dead cells faster, the skin reflects light better. That typical dullness of tired skin tends to disappear.
• Smooth effect on skin texture: if you run your fingers over your face and feel irregularities, retinol is the solution because it smooths the surface, making pores less visible, helping keep them clean and visibly reducing their size.
• Finer wrinkles: we are not talking about miracles that erase 20 years overnight, but a real improvement in fine lines and wrinkles from photo-aging. The skin looks fuller and more relaxed.
• More even tone: sun spots and old acne scars tend to lighten because cell turnover redistributes accumulated pigment faster.

The dark side of retinol: Retinization

Retinol is a pure, extremely powerful ingredient that at first may cause your skin to react with what is called retinization or an adjustment period.

You might notice dryness, slight tingling, redness, or even visible peeling. It is not an allergy; it is your skin learning to manage this renewal surge. The secret to surviving retinization and starting to see the first results is patience and using the retinol product in the evening, always remembering to apply sun protection in the morning.

We at LeLang believe skincare should be a pleasure, not a torture. Here is our gentle approach to introducing retinol into your routine without destroying the skin barrier: start very slowly, applying it only 2 evenings a week for the first two weeks, then move to 3 evenings or alternate evenings. After a month, your skin will have adapted to the new ingredient, and you can gradually increase the frequency; if you notice redness, take a step back.

If your skin is highly sensitive, try alternating your moisturizer as a base, then retinol, then another moisturizer as a seal: this way you slightly slow absorption without cancelling effectiveness. Remember never to go out without SPF if you are using retinol: this is the only inviolable rule. Retinol exposes new, fresh skin, which is infinitely more vulnerable to UV rays. Using retinol at night without applying a high sun protection (SPF 50) the next morning means taking one step forward and three steps back.

Finally, if you choose to use retinol at night, try to avoid strong exfoliating acids AHA and BHA, also skipping harsh scrubs. Accompany retinol only with moisturizers and soothing agents.

Natural alternatives to retinol: do they work?

Not all skin types are suitable for retinol: some are hypersensitive, others suffer from rosacea, and pregnant women should not use retinol, etc. If you prefer a green and safe but effective alternative, then you can opt for Bakuchiol. Extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, Bakuchiol has become the star of clean beauty for a very serious reason: it is not just marketing.

Retinol vs Bakuchiol: what does science say?

An important clinical study directly compared Bakuchiol and Retinol. They took two groups of people: one was given retinol, the other bakuchiol, both twice a day for 12 weeks. The result? Surprising. Both ingredients significantly reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. The difference? Those using Bakuchiol reported far fewer side effects, meaning no burning, no peeling, no tight skin.

Why choose the natural alternative?

Bakuchiol and similar alternatives are perfect if:

• You have reactive skin, meaning you want anti-aging results but cannot tolerate the "sting" of classic retinol.
• You want a simple routine: unlike retinol, which must be used only at night because it is photosensitive, Bakuchiol can often be used in the morning as well, always with SPF, of course.
• You seek a barrier-friendly approach: instead of attacking to renew, you accompany the skin on a gentler and steadier improvement path.

Retinol is a valid ingredient and, if used consistently, brings many results and benefits. It is natural to pay attention to various factors and especially to assess the skin’s response, which is always unique.

Retinol-proof skincare routine

A proper skincare routine must guide the skin towards a path that makes it healthier and more balanced. If you have chosen to introduce retinol into your routine, the obligation you cannot avoid is to use a valid sun protection. Choose Spot Defence 50 SPF, the facial sun serum with encapsulated vitamin C and probiotic ferments ideal for skin with discolorations. 

This serum works in synergy to correct discolorations and prevent the formation of new pigment, creating a complete attack protocol.

Retinol exposes new skin to external aggressions through an exfoliating action, so you should not use overly aggressive acids. The skin must be clean, but its hydrolipidic film must remain intact to defend itself. The best choice is a cleansing by affinity: the Cleansing Gentle Oil 

This product is perfect because it gently dissolves makeup and impurities, leaving the skin soft and never tight. It is the perfect canvas to work on.

Finally, remember that you can help your skin respond better to the negative effects of retinol through soothing ingredients such as thermal water, panthenol, bisabolol, and aloe vera. The Nutralight Sensitive face cream is the ideal companion for retinol 

Specifically formulated for reactive skin, it instantly calms and restores hydration without weighing down, quelling any irritation at its onset.