What is Cosmeceutics?

What is Cosmeceutics?

How has the world of cosmetics changed in recent years? Today we talk about cosmeceuticals, but what is it really? Let's find out together:

Let me introduce myself, I am Elisa Avalle founder of LeLang and I want to talk to you about a particular topic: what is cosmeceuticals that everyone is talking about? Well, I would like to delve into the issue of cosmeceuticals because I believe there are several points to clarify regarding it to avoid misunderstandings.

Let's start from the basics and discover together what cosmeceuticals are.

Cosmeceuticals: a definition 

The term cosmeceutical comes from the combination of the words "cosmetic" and "pharmaceutical" and refers to creams, lotions, cleansers, or products for local application on the skin that not only have aesthetic purposes but also perform a drug-like action. 

In short, we are not talking about drugs but about products that aspire to be something more than just cosmetics, even if, precisely because they are still cosmetics, they must by law be applied only to healthy skin. This is because if a product had the power to influence the structure or function of the body, then it should be considered a drug. 

To clarify: this is a first, fundamental concept that you must take into account when you are about to purchase a product dedicated to skin beauty.

We can say that basically a product is called cosmeceutical when it has a high concentration of active ingredients, some of which are also found in medicinal specialties: although they cannot be classified as drugs, they aim to have innovative characteristics compared to formulations already on the market and for this reason, they often contain a high concentration of excipients with innovative characteristics.

Cosmeceuticals have undoubtedly conquered the personal care sector worldwide, but despite this, the confusion brought by the definition is still high. Let's go a little further back in the history of cosmetics to be even clearer and more precise: The term was coined in 1984 by Dr. Albert Kligman of the University of Pennsylvania. 

He describes a category of hybrid products, which are halfway between cosmetic and pharmaceutical benefits. For Dr. Kligman, the cosmeceutical is " a topical preparation sold as a cosmetic but with performance characteristics that suggest a pharmaceutical action.”

The term has increasingly expanded thanks to technological innovations in the field of skincare, such as with rich formulations of topical vitamin C and its antioxidant effect, among others. From this, a new generation of cosmetic products has emerged that aim not only for cosmetic improvement. A cosmeceutical is therefore a product that can positively influence the skin beyond the time of its application thanks to its active ingredients. 

What makes an active ingredient classifiable as a cosmeceutical relates to its demonstrated functionality within in vivo clinical studies: ingredients are therefore standardized, meaning they have a certified amount of active principle, and are of natural or synthetic origin, extracted and synthesized according to innovative methods. The value of cosmeceutical products derives precisely from the market demand for products with demonstrated scientific efficacy in the declared activity. In other words, the demonstration of the declared functionality of the ingredient through in vivo studies is fundamental in cosmeceuticals.

The doubts about cosmeceuticals 

Although the term cosmeceutical is steeped in dermatological literature and is still widely debated around the world, it is interesting that almost four decades after coining the term, this category of skincare products is still not formally recognized by the European Union. 

This is essentially due to the difference between cosmetics and drugs according to the law. A drug is indeed defined as "an article intended for use in the diagnosis, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of diseases or intended to influence the structure or any function of the body."

On the contrary, according to Article 2 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, a cosmetic is: “A product or substance, other than a medicinal product, intended to be applied to the external surfaces of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp, nails, lips, external genital organs), or to the teeth and the mucous membranes of the mouth for the exclusive or primary purpose of cleaning them, perfuming them, altering their appearance, correcting body odors, protecting them or keeping them in good condition. Cosmetic products have no therapeutic purpose nor can they claim therapeutic activity”. 

Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals 

At this point, it is important to understand that cosmetics have made great strides in recent years and have completely renewed their approach. Advanced cosmetics, rich in biotechnological actives, is a natural evolution of cosmetics and responds to skin needs in an increasingly efficient manner. 

In functional cosmetics, we are witnessing an increasing focus on the functionality of the product: modern formulations feature higher percentages of bioactive principles and inci shorter, because the quantities of ingredients in the formula are reduced but the percentages that can guarantee a result on the specific imperfection are increased, whether it is wrinkles or spots, thus having a more targeted selection. 

Thanks also to the so-called "hybrid" studies on cosmeceuticals, the world of active ingredients has also been revolutionized, undergoing more appropriate clinical studies capable of protecting the skin thanks to the action of active principles and combined natural substances. 

LeLang's Choice 

"When it comes to skincare, I want to ensure that the information reaches people clearly so that everyone can freely decide how to act to feel good. For this reason, I wanted to delve into the topic together by making a distinction between cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and functional cosmetics." 

"We at LeLang use certified actives with in vivo clinical studies, always choosing products that are not tested on animals: in vitro experimentation allows us to create the perfect combination of functionality and ethics." 

Only through research and transparent information is it possible to achieve a result that goes far beyond the simple treatment of imperfections, but is capable of creating a state of well-being overall, both internal and external.

For this reason, LeLang is committed to creating formulas with natural ingredients and innovative synergies, products capable of becoming part of people's daily habits without risks, but as a truly special treat for the skin.