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The geranium used in cosmetics is not the geranium you keep on your balcony. It is Pelargonium graveolens, and the distinction is not botanical pedantry: they are two different genera, and only one of them produces an essential oil of cosmetic interest.
Article written by Elisa Avalle, founder of LeLang Skin Care and specialist in dermocosmetics. Cover image generated with the support of artificial intelligence.
Pelargonium, not Geranium
The plants we commonly call geraniums belong to the genus Pelargonium. The genus Geranium, on the other hand, includes wild species with a very different appearance. The confusion dates back to the eighteenth century and has become entrenched in everyday language, but the designation on the label is correct: Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil.
The oil is obtained by distilling the aerial parts. Its composition is dominated by citronellol and geraniol, two terpene alcohols that give it a floral note with a green and slightly rosy undertone - the reason why it is used in perfumery as a more affordable substitute for rose.
What it does for the skin
Herbal tradition attributes a balancing role to geranium, and in cosmetics it typically appears in formulas designed for combination skin and in body treatments.
However, the same honesty we apply to all essential oils is important here: their documented contribution to skin function is limited, and their greatest impact is on the user experience. A body treatment that smells good is applied consistently, and consistency is what produces results. This is also the field of neurocosmetics, where the olfactory pathway is part of the mechanism, not an accessory.
In our formulas, geranium is found in the body massage oil and scrub, where it is part of the blend with mint, sage and rosemary.
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Precautions to know
Geraniol and citronellol are among the fragrance allergens that European legislation requires to be declared on the label above certain thresholds. This is why you find them listed by name in the INCI lists of products containing geranium.
Mandatory declaration is not a warning: it is a tool. It helps people who have already experienced reactions identify what they need to avoid. For everyone else, at cosmetic concentrations, the margin is wide.
As with any essential oil, it should not be applied undiluted, and use concentrations are fractions of a percentage point. The general rules are set out in the essential oils guide.
Frequently asked questions about geranium
Can balcony geraniums be used to make oil at home?
Ornamental species are not intended for distillation, and a homemade maceration does not produce an essential oil. The result is an oil macerate with an unpredictable concentration and no preservation.
Is it phototoxic?
No. Unlike cold-pressed citrus oils, it does not contain furocoumarins and does not pose problems with sun exposure.
Is it suitable for the face?
Yes, in formulated products and at the intended concentrations. It is best avoided on very reactive skin or in cases of a history of fragrance-related contact dermatitis.
Does it work against mosquitoes?
Citronellol has some repellent activity, but a cosmetic is not an insect repellent: those are products governed by different regulations and with tested efficacy.
Are geranium and rose interchangeable?
In perfumery, geranium is used to evoke rose at a much lower cost. From a functional cosmetic perspective, they are different ingredients.
