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PFAS — an acronym for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances — are a broad family of synthetic chemical compounds characterized by extremely stable carbon–fluorine bonds. This stability gives them useful technical properties in numerous industrial sectors, but it also underlies their persistence in the environment, which is why they are often referred to as “forever chemicals”.
From January 1, 2026, France introduced a ban on the intentional use of PFAS in cosmetics, ushering in a new phase for the sector in Europe. Meanwhile, at EU level, group restriction proposals that could affect a large number of substances are being assessed. This article provides neutral information on what PFAS are, why they may be present in cosmetics, what evidence is available, and how the regulatory framework is evolving.
PFAS: what they are
PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances) comprise thousands of different chemicals — the most frequently cited estimates put the range between 5,000 and 10,000 compounds. Their common characteristic is the presence of partially or fully fluorinated alkyl chains and carbon–fluorine bonds, among the strongest in organic chemistry. This makes many PFAS substances resistant to chemical and biological degradation.
Within this class, there are molecules with different behaviors: some are more water-soluble, while others are more persistent or tend to remain in the body for longer. This variability is one of the reasons why the issue is addressed from a “family” perspective rather than solely through the assessment of individual substances.
PFAS in cosmetics: why they are used
In cosmetics, some PFAS substances may have been used for technical functions that improve product performance and sensory properties. In particular, they may help:
- to improve spreadability and provide a silky feel;
- to promote the formation of thin, uniform films;
- to increase resistance to water, sebum, and humidity;
- to support long wear in long-lasting and waterproof products.
According to data published by regulatory authorities, PFAS have been found mainly in long-wear foundations, waterproof eyeliner, waterproof mascara, eyeshadows, lipsticks, pressed powders, and some hair products. It is worth noting that these are primarily make-up products, rather than skincare treatments such as serums and creams, where these technical functions are rarely necessary.
Intentional use and unintentional presence
This is a decisive distinction for correctly interpreting the regulations:
- intentional use: the substance is deliberately added to achieve a formulation function;
- unintentional presence: PFAS appear as impurities or contaminants originating from raw materials or production processes.
The French ban concerns intentional use. Identifying unintentional presence is more complex and requires specific analyses or supply-chain information, because it does not appear on the label.
How they appear in the INCI
Some ingredients belonging to the PFAS class that may appear in an INCI list include polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and certain fluorinated silicones. A practical reading criterion: the prefix "perfluoro" or "polyfluoro" in an ingredient's name is a signal. Knowing how to read the INCI remains the consumer's primary tool: if you want to learn more, the cosmetic ingredient guide explains how to interpret a label.
PFAS and the environment: why they are considered persistent
One of the main reasons for concern is environmental persistence. Many PFAS can remain in soil and water for long periods and can be transported over long distances. Environmental studies have highlighted their presence in drinking water, sediments, and food chains in various geographical contexts.
The issue is not far removed from us. In Italy, significant cases of water contamination have been documented in some areas of Veneto and Piedmont, the region where LeLang originated. The only national restrictions currently in force concern drinking water, with limits applied from January 2026: Italy has not yet introduced category-wide bans on consumer products.
Possible effects on human health
The scientific evidence is evolving. According to several health and environmental authorities, exposure to certain PFAS has been associated in some studies with possible effects on:
- the immune system;
- fetal and childhood development;
- lipid metabolism (for example, cholesterol levels);
- the endocrine system;
- associations with specific diseases in contexts of prolonged exposure.
The effects vary depending on the specific substance, dose, duration, and route of exposure. For many PFAS substances, the available toxicological data are still limited, and this is an important point to state: scientific uncertainty is neither equivalent to safety nor to demonstrated danger.
The FDA report on PFAS in cosmetics
In the United States, the issue was analyzed under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA). The Food and Drug Administration published a report at the end of 2025 on the presence of PFAS in registered cosmetic formulations.
According to the report, 51 PFAS substances were identified in approximately 1,744 products, representing about 0.41% of the formulations analyzed. The most represented categories included eyeshadows, face and neck products, eyeliners, powders, and foundations, with PTFE among the substances most frequently reported.
For a significant proportion of the identified substances, toxicological data were insufficient for a complete risk assessment.
Regulations: what is changing
France: ban from January 1, 2026
The law was approved by the National Assembly on February 20, 2025 and entered into force on January 1, 2026. The ban covers the manufacture, import, export, and placing on the market of cosmetics, ski wax, and textile clothing products, including footwear. For the rest of the textile sector, the ban will take effect in 2030.
France is the second European country after Denmark to ban PFAS in cosmetics.
One detail says a great deal about the legislative process: the initial text also included non-stick cookware, coated with PTFE—the same compound most widely used in cosmetics. That section was removed during the parliamentary process. The same substance is therefore banned in lipstick but permitted in a frying pan.
European Union: group restriction proposal
At EU level, a restriction proposal submitted to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is under consideration, treating PFAS as a class. The options include general bans, temporary exemptions for certain sectors, and conditions of use with emission-reduction measures. According to available estimates, any European ban would not apply before 2027, which is also why France chose to act sooner.
Other countries
New Zealand has announced a ban on PFAS in cosmetics starting in 2026. In the United States, in the absence of a single federal ban, several states have adopted restrictive regulations. In the United Kingdom, the issue is undergoing regulatory assessment.
LeLang's position
A point we feel it is important to make before talking about ourselves. In Europe, no cosmetic ingredient enters the market without oversight: EC Regulation 1223/2009 requires every product to have a safety report signed by a qualified assessor, and the lists of prohibited and restricted substances are continually reviewed and updated based on the scientific opinions of the SCCS. It is one of the strictest regulatory frameworks in the world.
The PFAS case is actually an example of how this system works: when new evidence emerges, substances are reassessed and, if necessary, restricted. The fact that a molecule is currently under discussion does not mean that cosmetics on the market are uncontrolled, but that control is an ongoing process rather than a snapshot taken once and for all.
LeLang formulations do not contain PFAS. This is a direct consequence of how we choose ingredients, not a reaction to the French ban: our research focuses on active ingredients of natural origin, biotechnological ingredients, and short ingredient lists, where the technical functions for which PFAS are used — long wear, water resistance, and smooth films in make-up — simply are not needed.
This is what we mean by a clean approach: few ingredients, chosen for a specific, documented function, with a preference for raw materials of natural origin and Italian suppliers whose supply chains we can verify. It is worth stating this precisely, because "clean beauty" is a marketing expression with no legal definition, often used to suggest that other products are dangerous. That is not what it means to us: it means essentiality and traceability, not demonizing chemistry.
If you want to understand how this choice translates into laboratory practice, we explained it in the article on how a cosmetic product is created.
Implications for companies in the sector
Regulatory developments require the cosmetics sector to undertake activities such as mapping formulations and ingredients, assessing technical alternatives, updating supply-chain documentation, and adapting to the requirements of foreign markets.
For exporters, it is an immediate issue: a product that complies with regulations in Italy may not comply with those in France. The broader direction is the same one guiding the new packaging rules, which we discuss in the article on the EU Regulation 2025/40.
What consumers can do
- Read the INCI, looking for PTFE and the prefixes "perfluoro" and "polyfluoro".
- Look at the product category: the risk is concentrated in long-wear and waterproof makeup, and is much lower in skincare.
- Limit waterproof products to when they are genuinely needed — a day at the pool, not at the office.
- Ask the company. A manufacturer that knows its supply chain will respond; a lack of response is itself information.
Conclusions
PFAS represent a class of substances with established technical applications but also highly persistent environmental properties. The French ban and the European restriction proposals point to a significant change for the sector.
In this context, keeping up to date with scientific and institutional sources remains essential for correctly interpreting regulatory developments and distinguishing established data from areas that are still uncertain.
Frequently asked questions about PFAS in cosmetics
Are PFAS in cosmetics banned in Europe?
There is not yet a general ban at European level. A group restriction proposal is underway which, according to estimates, would not apply before 2027. France and Denmark have already introduced national bans.
When were PFAS banned in cosmetics in France?
From January 1, 2026, implementing the law passed on February 20, 2025.
Do LeLang cosmetics contain PFAS?
No. We do not use PFAS in our formulations: our research is based on naturally derived and biotechnology-based active ingredients and essential ingredient lists.
How can PFAS be identified in the INCI?
By looking for ingredients such as PTFE or names containing the prefixes "perfluoro" and "polyfluoro." Unintentional contamination cannot be identified from the label.
Are PFAS in cosmetics dangerous to health?
The risk profile varies depending on the substance and exposure. For many substances, the available data are still incomplete and research is ongoing.
Which products have they been found in most often?
Mainly in long-wear or water-resistant makeup: foundation, eyeliner, waterproof mascara, and eyeshadow. Much less in skincare products.
Sources
- Food and Drug Administration (FDA) — PFAS in Cosmetics Report, 2025
- Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) — PFAS and Human Health
- European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) — PFAS Restriction Proposal under REACH
- Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 on cosmetic products and opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)
- Law No. 2025-188 of February 27, 2025 (France) — ban on PFAS in cosmetics, ski wax, and textiles
