Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Their Use in Dermocosmetics

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are organic compounds widely used for exfoliating, hydrating, and improving the skin, ideal for acne and anti-aging. This article explores the chemical characteristics, mechanisms of action, and clinical indications of AHAs, with particular attention to their application for the treatment of acne, anti-aging, and other skin issues.

What Are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)?

AHA are organic acids characterized by a carboxylic group substituted with a hydroxyl group on the adjacent carbon. Among the most common, we find:

• Glycolic acid: present in the sugar cane.

• Lactic acid: derived from fermented dairy products.

• Mandelic acid: extract from bitter almonds.

• Citric acidfound in citrus.

These ingredients can be extracted naturally or chemically synthesized and are used in various concentrations to suit different cosmetic and dermatological applications.

Mechanisms of Action of AHAs

AHAs work on multiple levels of the skin, improving its appearance and function through exfoliation, hydration, and collagen stimulation, making them essential for radiant and smooth skin.

1. Exfoliation: reduction of cohesion between the cells of the stratum corneum, promoting cell renewal.

2. Hydration: they increase the skin's ability to retain water, improving its elasticity and turgor.

3. Collagen stimulation: in vitro studies demonstrate an increase in collagen production in skin fibroblasts.

These effects make AHAs ideal for anti-aging treatments, improving skin texture, and managing mild acne.

Clinical Applications

Acne

AHAs, especially glycolic acid, are effective in reducing the symptoms of mild to moderate acne. Clinical studies have shown that 10% concentrations applied daily visibly improve the skin condition after about 45 days.

Skin Aging

AHAs are known for their effect on photo-aging. High concentrations (up to 50%) used under professional supervision have been shown to:

• Reduce fine wrinkles.

• Improve irregular pigmentation.

• Increase the epidermal and dermal thickness.

Other Benefits

AHAs are also used in the treatment of seborrheic keratosis, xerosis, and hyperpigmentation. They are often used in professional protocols for chemical peels due to their deep exfoliating action.

Safety and Contraindications

The use of AHAs is generally safe if the indicated concentrations are respected:

• Up to 20% for household use.

• From 30% to 70% for professional treatments.

Common side effects include irritation, redness, and a mild burning sensation. It is essential to avoid direct sun exposure while using products with AHA and to apply adequate sun protection.

How to Integrate AHA into Your Routine

To get the most benefit from AHAs, follow these tips and discover the specific products available on LeLang Skincare:

1. Start gradually: use products with low concentrations to acclimate the skin.

2. Apply in the evening: AHAs can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

3. Use sunscreenfundamental for preventing UV damage.

Conclusions

AHAs are a cornerstone of dermocosmetics due to their versatility and effectiveness. Their ability to improve skin texture, hydration, and radiance makes them a key ingredient in treatments for acne, photo-aging, and other skin conditions. For optimal results, it is advisable to choose products with concentrations and pH suitable for your needs, and in case of doubts, consult a dermatologist.

If you want to delve deeper into the topic and discover how to integrate AHA-based products into your routine, visit LeLang Skincare.