INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Silk peptides are obtained by hydrolyzing fibroin and sericin, the two proteins in the cocoon. They work on the surface by forming a film that retains water: an immediate sensory effect, not a structural one.

Menthol doesn’t cool: it activates cold receptors. The three forms of mint you’ll find on the label, and which one is for the face and which for the body.

The cosmetic geranium is Pelargonium graveolens, not the balcony geranium. What it really does, and why geraniol and citronellol appear on the label.

Polyglutamic acid is a polymer obtained through fermentation that retains water and forms a film on the surface. How does it work, what do the data really say, and how does it compare with hyaluronic acid?

Common sage and clary sage are two different essential oils, and only the former contains regulated thujone. How to read the label and what it is used for.

Coconut oil is made up of half lauric acid and is one of the most occlusive oils. Where it makes sense to use it, why it’s risky on acne-prone skin, and how much comedogenicity scales are worth.

Lactic acid is the gentlest alpha hydroxy acid and the only one that is part of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor: concentrations, pH, which skin types it makes sense for, and how to use it.