AUCTION MAGAZINE

INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Ogni ingrediente cosmetico spiegato: nome INCI, come agisce sulla pelle e in quali prodotti si trova.

Jojoba oil: what it is, what it does, and which skin types it works for
Jojoba oil is not chemically an oil but a liquid wax. Why this makes it stable, lightweight, and suitable even for oily skin, what it actually does to the skin barrier, and what it does not do.
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Roman chamomile: why it isn’t the chamomile you know
Roman chamomile is Anthemis nobilis, a plant different from common chamomile: its oil is not blue because it does not contain chamazulene. How to tell them apart.
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Witch hazel for the skin: distillate or extract—what’s the difference?
Witch hazel water and witch hazel extract are not the same thing: distillation leaves behind the tannins, which are the active molecules. How to read the INCI, what it really does, and when alcohol ruins everything.
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Ylang-ylang in cosmetics: what it does and what precautions are needed
Ylang-ylang is distilled into fractions of varying quality. What it really does for the skin, why its sensory contribution matters, and what precautions to be aware of.
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Rutin in cosmetics: what it does and why it is called vitamin P
Vitamin P does not exist: it is a historical name given to a group of flavonoids. Rutin strengthens capillary resistance and reduces permeability, with antioxidant activity. What it does, where it makes sense, and what its limitations are.
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Sesame oil for the skin: why it doesn’t go rancid
Sesame oil contains antioxidant lignans that make it much more stable than oils with a similar profile. What it does for the skin and who it is suitable for.
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Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: the vitamin C that doesn’t oxidize
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is vitamin C protected by a phosphate group: it doesn’t oxidize in the bottle and activates on the skin. Less potent, but much better tolerated.
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Argan oil for the face: what it contains and when to use it
Gamma-tocopherol instead of alpha-tocopherol, schottenol and spinasterol, and a balanced ratio of oleic and linoleic acids: what makes argan oil different from other vegetable oils and how to distinguish cosmetic oil from culinary oil.
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