Understanding acne: what it is, what causes it, and how to treat it

Acne is a very common skin condition worldwide and is characterized by the formation of pimples, blackheads, and other visible imperfections on the skin. Although acne can appear on various parts of the body such as the chest and back, it is primarily a cosmetic issue that occurs on the face.

Acne is often associated with significant discomfort and psychological issues, which is why it becomes essential to know the causes and treatments that can help eliminate this annoying blemish. 

What is acne? 

Acne is the result of the blockage of hair follicles by sebum, dead skin cells, and bacteria. The presence of these factors indeed leads to the formation of open comedones, such as blackheads that appear when the skin pore is blocked but remains open, allowing sebum and dead cells to oxidize and turn black, or closed comedones, commonly known as whiteheads, which occur when the pores are completely blocked and have trapped sebum and dead cells beneath the surface of the skin. 

The formation of comedones is a natural process of the skin, but some factors can contribute to their excessive production. An increase in oil, or sebum, production can occur due to hormonal changes such as those that happen during puberty, or due to hormonal imbalances. The excess sebum combines with dead skin cells and bacteria, causing the obstruction of hair follicles and the subsequent development of acne. 

What are the causes of acne? 

The factors that contribute to the development of acne are multiple and often there is no single or common cause. Hormonal changes, especially during the puberty phase, can be the cause of increased sebum production in the skin, which leads to the development of acne. This is the main reason why acne is commonly associated with adolescence since the increase in hormones during this phase of life can trigger the onset of acne. 

However, hormonal changes are not the only culprit of acne. The intake of certain medications such as corticosteroids and androgens can be one of the causes. These medications indeed disturb the hormonal balance and can lead to an increase in sebum production and the consequent development of acne.

Genetics, on the other hand, plays a fundamental role in the development and severity of acne. People who have had parents or siblings with a history of acne are tendentially more inclined to develop such a condition. This is due to some genetic variations that can make the skin more susceptible to blockage and inflammation and increase the likelihood of acne breakouts.  

Aside from hormonal changes or genetic factors, diet and daily stress levels are discriminating factors when it comes to acne formation. Having a diet high in sugars and refined products increases insulin levels in the body and leads to an overproduction of sebum and the consequent development of acne. Stress also triggers hormonal imbalances and inflammation in the body, exacerbating acne symptoms.

Obviously, knowing the causes of acne is essential to develop effective treatment strategies and address the underlying factors that may have contributed to the formation of acne allows for managing and preventing breakouts, improving the health and aesthetic appearance of the skin over time. 

How many types of acne are there? 

Acne can manifest in different forms, and understanding these allows us to determine the most appropriate therapeutic approach. Acne can be distinguished based on the different types of lesions it presents on the skin:

• Comedonal acne, characterized by whiteheads and blackheads, often referred to as acne vulgaris; 
• Papulopustular acne, in which papules and pustules mainly appear on the face, chest, and shoulders; 
• Cystic acne, its most acute form in which nodules and cysts are formed due to chronic inflammation of the follicles. 

Comedonal acne

White and blackheads are the type of imperfection most commonly associated with acne. Whiteheads, as we have seen, form when pores become clogged, trapping sebum, bacteria, and dead skin cells beneath the surface. The material then remains trapped and forms small flesh-colored bumps, tiny blisters that can be frustrating, especially when they appear on visible areas like the face and neck. 

Blackheads are similar to whiteheads but appear darker due to oxidation. Blackheads are not caused by dirt as commonly believed; the dark color is the result of the reaction between trapped oil and air. Blackheads are often found on the nose, chin, and forehead, the famous T-zone where the skin produces more oil. 

Blackheads and whiteheads can be difficult to eliminate, however with a good skincare routine and targeted treatments, it is possible to manage these imperfections effectively. 

Papulopustular acne

These are inflammatory forms of acne. Papules are small red and painful bumps that occur when the walls around the pores break due to inflammation. They are often sensitive to the touch and can be very painful. 

Pustules are simply inflamed pimples that contain a lot of pus. They can also be painful and often have a center that is very easy to notice, either white or yellow. Pustules are nothing more than a symptom of an active infection in the skin and should be treated with particular care to prevent further spread of bacteria. 

Papules and pustules are therefore painful and highly visible, to the point of being a social nuisance. What matters most is that one must resist the temptation to squeeze and pop them because in this case, it would lead to scarring as well as the spread of further infections. In cases of severely inflamed pustules or papules, it is necessary to seek professional advice from a dermatologist to initiate appropriate treatment. 

Cystic Acne

When it comes to acne, there are also serious lesions that can cause significant pain and discomfort, such as nodules. These are rather large and solid bumps that cause pain and develop deeper in the skin. Nodules are hard to the touch and can be persistent. Once removed, they leave deep scars, especially if not treated properly. Sometimes nodules form due to follicular cysts that rupture due to a foreign body. 

Cysts are similar to nodules and are filled with pus. They are often larger and more painful than nodules. Cysts can be deeply rooted and may require medical intervention for effective treatment. Attempting to squeeze or pop a cyst can lead to further inflammation and scarring.

Dealing with nodules and cysts can be challenging. It is essential to consult a dermatologist for an accurate diagnosis and to have more treatment options. Dermatologists can prescribe oral medications such as antibiotics to help manage more severe cases of acne.

The impact of acne on skin health 

Acne can have immediate effects on skin health: pimples and imperfections cause redness, swollen skin, and pain in the affected areas. Many people suffer psychologically and develop anxiety regarding this issue. If not managed properly, acne can also leave lasting effects on the skin.

Severe acne can leave more or less deep scars. Inflammations and acne damage can lead to problems of hyperpigmentation, such as the onset of dark spots and permanent discoloration. With appropriate treatments and prevention, it is possible to minimize the long-term effects of acne. Furthermore, skin suffering from acne tends to thicken and appear asphyxiated, dull, subjected to constant inflammation. 

Skincare routine for acne-prone skin

Cleansing and exfoliation of acne-prone skin

Proper facial cleansing is a crucial aspect when it comes to acne: cleansing helps in the removal of excess oil, dirt, and impurities that can clog pores and cause breakouts. Regular exfoliation then follows, which helps to remove dead skin cells that can accumulate on the skin layer, causing pore blockage. 

The best exfoliants are those based on beta-hydroxy acids or BHA such as Salicylic Acid, which is oil-soluble and, when it comes into contact with sebum, bacteria, and dead cells, effectively removes them from clogged pores. By keeping the pores clean and free of sebum, salicylic acid acts as a comedolytic, preventing the formation of comedones that lead to skin breakouts and preventing the formation of acne. 

Cleansing Active Mousse is the foaming facial cleanser with a texture that contains a concentration of Salicylic Acid at 0.5%. Thanks to its Active Mousse formulation, it is ideal for treating acne imperfections and for the daily cleansing of inflamed skin or skin affected by seborrheic dermatitis.

Contains Tea Tree Oil, a natural ingredient known for its antimicrobial properties, making it effective in the fight against the bacteria that cause acne, Burdock, which has anti-inflammatory properties and can help reduce inflammation related to acne, and Betaine, which energizes cells and improves the response to infections. 

Hydration for acne-prone skin 

Another crucial step in the skincare routine against acne is hydration. Many people with acne-prone skin tend to believe that hydration can worsen their acne, but this is not the case. In fact, keeping the skin adequately hydrated can help balance sebum production by preventing excessive sebum production. It is better to opt for lightweight moisturizers that do not clog pores and to choose humectant ingredients such as panthenol or provitamin B5, which is soothing and anti-itch and promotes skin regeneration processes, or betaine, which has the hygroscopic ability to create a skin barrier by absorbing water molecules from the surrounding environment. 

The active ingredients that combat acne

Cosmetics can be essential for the treatment of acne, especially if they contain highly functional active ingredients.

Azeloglicina is a powerful active ingredient that plays a fundamental role in skin care, particularly when it comes to fighting acne. This water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid is known for the following properties that make it an excellent ally against acne, including: 

• the seboregulation
• the reduction of skin hyperpigmentation and spots
• illumination of the complexion
• the soothing and calming action, with elasticizing properties that help keep the skin hydrated and soothe any irritations. 

Zincidone® is a bio-mineral complex in powder form of natural origin that proves to be an effective ally in the fight against acne and oily skin. This complex consists of two main components: Zinc, an essential trace element crucial for the human body, and L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (L-PCA), a physiological molecule of the skin. The certified active ingredient combines L-PCA, which strengthens the skin barrier, with the benefits of zinc known for its sebum-regulating, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory action. The antibacterial properties of Zincidone® allow it to combat the C. acnes bacterium, involved in the development of acne. 

Zincidone® is an excellent option for those suffering from oily skin, acne, or skin irritations. Its ability to act on various fronts, from regulating sebum to protecting the skin barrier, makes it a valuable ingredient in skincare. For clearer, purer, and well-hydrated skin, 

The niacinamide, finally, also known as Vitamin B3, helps to reduce spots caused by comedones and residual redness, acts as a regulator of sebum production, and prevents its accumulation in the sebaceous glands. In this way, it helps to counteract the formation of blockages and the onset of imperfections. 

When it comes to skincare, it may take time to see significant improvements, but with patience and dedication, it is possible to achieve a clearer complexion and regain self-confidence.

The consultation with a dermatologist is essential if you suffer from severe or persistent acne and allows you to receive personalized advice and treatment options tailored to your skin's needs.

In addition to skincare, some lifestyle changes can help prevent acne breakouts. Maintaining a balanced diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and whole grains can promote skin health. Regular exercise can help reduce stress levels, which can contribute to acne flare-ups. Also, avoiding excessive sun exposure and wearing sunscreen can help protect the skin from damage and breakouts.