September is the month when the word "dark spots" comes up at the counter more than at any other time of year. It is not just a perception: this is when a tan starts to fade, revealing what summer has built up over the previous months. The customer arrives convinced that she has a new problem. In reality, she is seeing for the first time a problem that formed in June.
This article brings together the physiology, the three questions that really come up, and the boundaries of what can be said without crossing into territory that does not belong to cosmetics.
Cover image generated with the support of artificial intelligence.
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Why dark spots become visible in September and not July
The melanin produced during exposure is not distributed uniformly. In areas where melanocytes have been repeatedly stimulated — cheekbones, forehead, bridge of the nose, upper lip — production remains more active and persists for longer. As long as the entire face is tanned, the contrast between these areas and the surrounding skin is low, and the dark spot is camouflaged.
When the overall tan fades, over the course of four to eight weeks, the contrast increases and the uneven pigmentation becomes visible. This is the same phenomenon that leads a customer to say, in good faith, "they appeared in one week": they did not appear, they emerged.
The practical consequence is important and worth explaining at the counter: the moment when the dark spot becomes visible is not the moment when it formed. This shifts the discussion from an immediate remedy to prevention for the following season, which is exactly where advice in the pharmacy adds the most value.
The three questions that come up at the counter
"What can I use to get rid of them?"
It is the most frequent and most delicate request, because it contains an expectation that no cosmetic can meet. A dermocosmetic works on the appearance of uneven pigmentation: it reduces contrast, evens out the complexion, and slows the formation of new melanin. It does not remove the dark spot.
The response that works neither denies nor promises: it explains that the goal is progressive improvement, measurable over eight to twelve weeks, and that consistency matters more than the concentration of the active ingredient. A customer who has been promised too much comes back disappointed; a customer who has been told the realistic timeframe comes back for the second bottle.
"Is it true that the sun makes them worse?"
Yes, and this is the point where advice can genuinely change the result. UV radiation and high-energy visible light reactivate melanogenesis even in September and October, when the perceived risk is almost nonexistent. An evening-out treatment without daily protection is working against itself.
This is the most sensible cross-selling opportunity of the year: anyone who buys a product for dark spots in September needs sun protection at least as much as they did in July, but they do not know it. Helping them understand this is not about selling more; it is about preventing the treatment they have just bought from failing.
"I have one large dark spot on my cheek"
Here, the advice stops and the customer is referred on. Extensive, symmetrical pigmentation that appears during pregnancy or hormonal therapy has different characteristics from a sun spot and requires dermatological evaluation. The same applies to any lesion that changes shape, color, or size, or has irregular borders.
Distinguishing between them does not mean losing the sale: it means building the trust that brings the customer back for everything else.
The boundaries of what can be said
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 defines a cosmetic product as one intended to be applied to the external surfaces of the body to clean them, perfume them, change their appearance, protect them, or keep them in good condition. "Change their appearance" is the wording that defines the boundaries of the entire discussion about dark spots.
In practice, at the counter:
- you can say that the product reduces the appearance of uneven pigmentation and evens out the complexion;
- you can say that it helps prevent the formation of new uneven pigmentation, together with sun protection;
- you cannot say that it eliminates, erases, or lightens a dark spot;
- you cannot use the term melasma as a use indication: it is a dermatological condition, and at most the cosmetic can support it as an aesthetic adjunct;
- you cannot attribute to the cosmetic an effect on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by an ongoing condition.
In practice, the difference between sound and risky advice comes down to two words: talk about appearance and evenness, not removal.
How to structure the advice in three steps
The approach that works at the counter is always the same and takes less than two minutes of conversation.
- Ask how long it has been there. Dark spots that appeared after summer, in sun-exposed areas, with blurred edges: cosmetic territory. A single, raised spot that is changing: dermatologist.
- Introduce the evening-out active ingredient in the morning, with daily application and an eight-to-twelve-week timeframe. A well-tolerated active ingredient used consistently beats an aggressive active ingredient used intermittently.
- Link sun protection to the treatment, rather than presenting it as an accessory. The useful message is that without SPF, the treatment has no way to consolidate the result.
It is best to be cautious with exfoliation in September: on skin that has only just finished being exposed to the sun, an overly aggressive peel can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and worsen the situation. It is better to wait a few weeks or choose an enzymatic exfoliant, which is easier to manage.
What we offer for this need
Our Spot Defence serum is built around this approach: daily evening-out action, sufficient tolerance for continuous use, and no promise of removal. It is designed to complement sun protection, not replace it.
SPOT DEFENCE 50 SPF SPF 50 anti-dark-spot facial sunscreen serum With encapsulated vitamin C, plant glycogen and postbiotic ferments, for... Discover SPOT DEFENCE 50 SPF
In a conversation at the counter, the advantage of a well-tolerated formula is practical: it makes it possible to follow the twelve-week routine without interruptions, which are the main reason for an unsuccessful result in this area.
Sources for this article
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, Article 2 (definition of a cosmetic product) and Article 20 (product claims). Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013, laying down common criteria for claims relating to cosmetic products.
On the website: facial uneven pigmentation · hyperpigmentation and its types · sun spots on the face · facial peeling for dark spots · melasma · azelaic acid.
Working together on advice
Our products are distributed exclusively through pharmacies, via partner pharmacies throughout the country. This choice is based precisely on conversations like this one: a product for uneven pigmentation needs to be explained, and the pharmacy counter is the only place where this truly happens.
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We formulate our products in the Langhe and distribute them exclusively through pharmacies, with protected margins and training on in-pharmacy advice.
