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Consiglio al banco della farmacia a una cliente con couperose
Dermocosmetics at the pharmacy

Couperose at the pharmacy counter: what the customer asks and what you can say

Elisa Avalleof Elisa Avalle , founder of LeLang

7 min read

The request at the counter almost always takes the same form: I have visible capillaries on my face—what can you give me? Behind that sentence lie at least three different conditions, and one of them is not a cosmetic problem.

Distinguishing erythrosis, couperose, and rosacea with three questions is not clinical pedantry. It is what protects the advice: rosacea is a chronic dermatological condition, and cosmetics can improve the skin’s appearance and comfort, but cannot cure it.

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Three words that customers use as synonyms

Terminological confusion is the first obstacle, and it does not concern customers alone: it is also widespread in much industry communication.

Erythrosis. Diffuse redness of a vasomotor nature that comes and goes. It is a functional response: the vessel dilates in response to a stimulus, then returns to normal. The skin appears normal between episodes. Cosmetics have a genuine role to play here.

Couperose. The next stage. The dilation becomes structural, and the capillaries remain visible as permanent telangiectasias, generally on the cheeks and sides of the nose. Here, cosmetics work on residual reactivity and the skin barrier, but cannot close a vessel that is already dilated.

Rosacea. A chronic inflammatory condition that progresses in stages and may involve papules, pustules, skin thickening, and ocular involvement. It falls within dermatological care and requires medical treatment. Cosmetics have a supportive role in improving tolerance, but never a treatment role.

The educational overview we use with end customers is in erythrosis, couperose, and rosacea, and it is a useful page to point out to anyone who wants to learn more after leaving the pharmacy.

The three questions that guide the advice in thirty seconds

There is no need for a medical history. Three questions are enough, and they can be asked while going to get the product.

  1. “Does the redness come and go, or is it always there?” If it comes and goes, we are dealing with a vasomotor component; if it is persistent and the vessels are visible, we are dealing with established couperose.
  2. “Are there also pimples, pustules, or burning eyes?” If the answer is yes, the advice stops here and the person is referred to a dermatologist. It is the most important of the three questions.
  3. “What triggers it?” Heat, temperature changes, alcohol, hot or spicy foods, intense exercise, sauna, stress. This helps build the part of the advice that cannot be bought.

The second question is the one most often skipped, and the one that exposes you the most. Referring the customer to a doctor does not cost you the sale: in our experience, it does exactly the opposite, because the customer returns to that pharmacy precisely because they were not sold something at all costs.

What a cosmetic product can and cannot do

This is the boundary to understand before speaking, because Regulation (EU) 655/2013 requires every claim to be truthful, substantiated, and not misleading.

It cannot make an established telangiectasia disappear. Removing a dilated blood vessel falls within the medical and device-based aesthetic field, including vascular lasers and intense pulsed light. Saying this openly at the counter is the fastest way to build credibility.

It can, and these are tangible benefits: reduce the frequency and intensity of redness episodes by working on reactivity; improve the skin's tolerability by strengthening the skin barrier, which is almost always compromised in reactive skin; lessen perceived redness; and protect against the most consistent trigger of all, solar radiation.

“Telling a customer that the capillary will not go away does not cost you the sale. It prevents them from getting the wrong product.”

The actives underpinning the recommendation

In this category, formulation matters more than elsewhere because the skin in question has low tolerance. There are four families worth mentioning at the counter.

Vasoprotective peptides. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40 is the best-documented of the group, with efficacy data on reducing redness from the manufacturer's tests. This should be stated as such: these are company tests, not independent studies, and saying so strengthens rather than weakens the recommendation.

Soothing agents. Bisabolol remains the benchmark for tolerability and lack of significant sensitizing potential.

Neurocosmetic actives. They act on the reactivity component mediated by cutaneous nerve endings, which explains why stress worsens the condition. The Tephrosia purpurea extract is among the most widely used for this purpose.

Broad-spectrum sun protection. It is part of the treatment, not an accessory. For this type of skin, the formula’s overall tolerability matters more than the filter family alone: lightweight texture, photostable filters, daily application. And the advice should be given year-round, not only in summer.

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The three things that make it worse, and that customers do not connect

This is the kind of advice no e-commerce site can provide, and it is what brings customers back.

  • Hot water. Showers, cleansing, saunas. Heat is a direct vasodilatory stimulus, and for many customers it is the most frequent trigger of all. Simply lowering the temperature is enough to see a difference within two weeks.
  • Exfoliants. Scrubs, acids, brushes. On an already fragile barrier, they increase reactivity and redness instead of evening out the skin tone. They should be stopped, not reduced.
  • Seasonal sun protection. Using it only in summer means leaving the entire period when vascular damage silently accumulates unprotected.

We add a fourth, less obvious element: products changed too often. Reactive skin needs stability. Four weeks on the same protocol reveal much more than four products tried for one week each.

From our training sessions

During training sessions, we always ask how many customers with couperose come to the counter in a week. The answer is almost always higher than the shelf space would suggest. It is a category that sells little not because demand is lacking, but because the opening line for starting the conversation is missing.

Why it deserves more space

Commercially, couperose has three characteristics that few categories combine.

It is chronic: it does not go away and is not abandoned. People who find a product they tolerate buy it again for years, and customer value is measured over the lifecycle, not by the receipt.

It is underserved: compared with anti-aging, dark spots, and acne, the dedicated offering is more limited and general communication is almost nonexistent. Those who position themselves here face less noise.

It is highly loyal to the channel: people whose skin reacts to everything do not buy randomly online. They look for someone to ask. That is exactly the pharmacy’s competitive advantage, and in this category it matters more than in any other.

The reasoning behind why that advantage should not be undersold is explained in why the average 13% discount is a problem.

What to avoid saying

Three phrases to remove from your vocabulary because they expose the person saying them and destroy trust when the result does not come.

  • “This will make the capillaries disappear.” This is an unsubstantiated claim for a cosmetic product, and the customer will check it in the mirror within a month.
  • “It’s just sensitive skin, don’t worry.” This minimizes the issue and, in cases involving papules or pustules, delays a diagnosis.
  • “Try this; if it doesn’t work, come back.” On reactive skin, “doesn’t work” often means “I had a reaction,” and at that point the customer does not come back.

The formula that works is simpler and more honest: explain that the focus is on the frequency of episodes and skin tolerance, that already formed vessels remain, and that the result is assessed after eight weeks.

How we work with partner pharmacies

LeLang is an Italian cosmetics company founded in the Langhe and distributed exclusively through pharmacies and para-pharmacies. For this category, we provide the complete protocol, technical data sheets for the active ingredients with an explicit indication of which data come from manufacturers' tests, and training on the questions to ask at the counter.

The network of partner pharmacies can be found on the website. Anyone wishing to assess the range can find the terms on the become a partner pharmacist page.

Sources for this article

01 Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
02 Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013 on common criteria for cosmetic product claims
03 Gallo R.L. et al., Standard classification and pathophysiology of rosacea: the 2017 update by the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 78(1), 2018
04 Schaller M. et al., Rosacea treatment update: recommendations from the global ROSacea COnsensus (ROSCO) 2017 panel, British Journal of Dermatology, 176(2), 2017
05 Technical documentation from cosmetic active ingredient manufacturers, identified as such

On the website: LeLang partner pharmacies · become a partner pharmacist · erythrosis, couperosis, and rosacea