Isoflavones: puerarin and its benefits for the skin

Puerarin is a isoflavone that is truly special. Renowned for its properties, it is extracted from the root of Pueraria lobata also known as Kudzu. This Asian climbing plant, known for years, has captured the attention of the scientific and cosmeceutical community for its important cellular protective activities, and for the benefits to the microcirculation, heart, and brain. 

Its virtues are not limited to the medical field, but extend with remarkable success to the realm of skincare and skin care. This extraordinary result is the fruit of the peculiar chemical structure of this isoflavone, which, thanks to its phenolic groups, demonstrates the ability to neutralize free radicals, thus preserving the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage.

To fully understand the importance of isoflavone, it is essential to remember that free radicals are unstable and reactive molecules that can cause cellular damage, accelerating the aging process and predisposing to the onset of various pathologies. Puerarin, acting as a valuable shield, plays a key role in protecting skin cells, helping to keep them healthy and vital.

Let's see how this isoflavone helps the skin stay healthy and young for a long time. 

What are isoflavones?

Isoflavones are phytoestrogens, that is, polyphenolic compounds found in leguminous plants. Their chemical structure is such that it is similar to endogenous estrogens, granting them the ability to interact with various receptors in the human body, thereby influencing to a greater or lesser extent the cellular and endocrine system.

At the cosmeceutical level, this is of significant importance in countering the biological processes underlying premature skin aging. One of the main attributes of isoflavones is a recognized and powerful antioxidant activity. These compounds act as natural antioxidants of free radicals, stabilizing molecules that could otherwise cause cellular damage. 

It is precisely for these characteristics that they play a crucial role in cosmetics by protecting tissues from oxidative stress that leads to pathological skin aging and slowing down the physiological aging of the skin.

Recent scientific research also suggests a direct action of isoflavones in protection against sun damage induced by UV exposure, one of the main factors contributing to premature skin aging and deterioration of skin health.

According to these studies, isoflavones, through their antioxidant action, can neutralize the free radicals generated by exposure to UV rays, thus minimizing the harmful effect of such radiation on the skin.

Isoflavones and menopause: the benefits of genistein

During menopause, there is a natural hormonal decline that is also reflected at the skin level: the tissues become thinner and hydration levels decrease. The skin loses density and consistency as the cellular turnover slows down and the cells lose energy, making the skin dull and lifeless. 

Phytoestrogens are used in cosmetics precisely to combat these changes and slow down the onset of aesthetic issues related to aging. Soy is rich in phytoestrogens that are useful in countering cellular aging, as is Kudzu, which is rich in isoflavones such as puerarin and genistein. 

Genistein is revealed to be an important isoflavone in cosmetics because its chemical structure is very similar to estradiol, an estrogen produced by the ovaries during the female fertile phase. Therefore, genistein is able to compensate for the lack of estradiol and bind to the beta estrogen receptors (ERb) present in skin fibroblasts. 

Numerous studies confirm the positive effects of applying isoflavones such as genistein on the skin, including the increased presence of hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis. 

Another well-known action of genistein is that of preventing skin aging caused by solar radiation, that is, photo-aging, due to its powerful antioxidant action that protects against damage caused by UV rays.

Genistein, and isoflavones in general, have several positive effects on the skin including the inhibition of skin aging. Genistein inhibits the tyrosine kinase protein, blocking the signaling transduction process that leads to the degradation of collagen and elastin, responsible for skin aging. This promotes collagen reconstruction and strengthens the structure of the dermis.

"Not to be underestimated is the antioxidant action of isoflavones, which act as scavengers of free radicals, protecting the skin from damage caused by their oxidation."

The benefits of puerarin for the skin 

Puerarin is an isoflavone with important protective activities for the skin. Studied for its effectiveness by the Faculty of Bioengineering at Zhejiang University in China. Puerarin molecules act by capturing free radicals and preventing damage to the cellular structure of the skin. This allows for the maintenance of the structural integrity of the cells in the face.

This isoflavone exhibits a powerful protective activity on cellular DNA against damage from stressors such as wind, pollution, or adverse skin reactions, preventing or alleviating possible gene mutations in cells, thus maintaining cellular stability to reduce potential risks to the skin and the appearance of imperfections. Puerarin is also known for the protection it offers at the level of oxidative stress, possessing a powerful protective action on cellular lipids.

The lipids present in cell membranes are, in fact, susceptible to oxidation, and this oxidation damages the structure and function of the cells. Puerarin, thanks to its antioxidant properties, protects cellular lipids from lipid peroxidation, a process that involves the oxidation of lipids present in cell membranes, thus contributing to maintaining the integrity of the membranes, which allows the skin to remain healthy, toned, and well-protected.

A notable advantage that puerarin demonstrates over other isoflavones is its ability to regenerate and restore the effect of other cellular antioxidants, thereby amplifying the capacity to protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Puerarin acts directly on the extracellular matrix of the papillary dermis, reducing cell senescence and delaying skin aging. Finally, the beneficial effect of this isoflavone extends to the microcirculation, the vascular system that is vital for the proper supply of oxygen and nutrients to the cells. By stimulating and strengthening this delicate balance, puerarin promotes better blood microcirculation, with positive effects on skin brightness and elasticity.

The beneficial properties of Kudzu isoflavones

The Kudzu, also known as Pueraria Lobata, is a climbing plant native to Japan, China, and Korea, belonging to the Fabaceae family, and is now cultivated on a global scale. In traditional medicine, it has been used for centuries for its extraordinary antioxidant, antitumor, antidepressant, and neuroprotective properties. 

The term "Pueraria" literally means "related to youth," which reveals its ability to stimulate the building blocks of the organism, with a particularly pronounced effect on the skin where it significantly contributes to the fight against the signs of aging. 

Kudzu extract is rich in isoflavones, such as:

• quercetin
• genistein
• tectorigenin
• daidzein
• puerarin

All powerful antioxidants capable of effectively countering inflammation and, consequently, protecting the skin from aging. This extract promotes skin tone uniformity and increases hydration levels; it is also able to soothe inflammation in sensitive skin thanks to the presence of anti-inflammatory components. One of the most interesting aspects of Kudzu lies in its ability to intervene deeply, acting at the root of skin aging. 

Isoflavones in skincare: the ideal products

Capturing the benefits of actives within skincare products is our job: that’s why we have infused the advantages of isoflavones like puerarin into the Biorevitalizing Face Serum and the anti-aging elasticizing face cream Hyluronic Advance. 

Both products, ideal for mature skin that requires deep hydration and protection, are designed to act on the extracellular matrix and provide various benefits, such as: 

• Give brightness to the face
• Reduce the depth of wrinkles
• Maintain and increase hydration 
• Restore skin elasticity 
• Stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid.

Face serum and cream are the fundamental steps of skincare and both contain an extract of Pueraria Lobata or Kudzu, an ingredient rich in protective isoflavones and antioxidants.