Hyaluronic Acid in Cosmetics: What Is It Really Used For?

Hyaluronic acid in the cosmetic field is talked about everywhere. But do we really know what it’s for? Hyaluronic acid is present in many cosmetics that we regularly purchase, such as serums and face creams. It is certainly an ingredient with multiple beneficial properties for the skin that is often used for purposes related to hydration and volumization. 

The hyaluronic acid (HA) in cosmetics is present in different forms known as molecular weights and can come from various sources; in this sense, its effects can also differ based on composition and origin. Furthermore, each hyaluronic acid-based product often contains multiple ingredients that work in synergy to achieve specific effects. 

In this article, we will explore the skin benefits of hyaluronic acid, the different types of hyaluronic acids available, and we will see what characteristics make this ingredient a true must-have for every skin type. 

What is hyaluronic acid? 

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide produced directly by the cells of our body, and its name comes from the Greek "hualos," which means "glass" and by extension "transparent." It is found in the eyes, skin, and joints; hyaluronic acid (HA) is precisely a disaccharide biopolymer and the human body contains about 15g of it. 

It belongs to the group of glycosaminoglycans and is composed of a long unbranched chain created by the alternation of sugar units of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. Thanks to this particular structure, hyaluronic acid is able to bind and retain numerous water molecules allowing tissues to remain hydrated.

L’HA has intrigued many scientists since its discovery within the human eye precisely because of the wide range of biological roles it plays despite its chemical simplicity. It didn't take long before cosmetic and medical industries decided to reproduce this molecule by integrating it with other ingredients. Today, topical hyaluronic acid is a flagship for the production of cosmetics aimed at hydrating the skin and reducing the formation of wrinkles. 

Aesthetic doctors use hyaluronic acid by injecting it directly under the skin as a dermal filler to lift critical points of the face, and it is often used to hydrate and protect the eyes and as a humectant, not to mention the famous hyaluronic acid injections for joint health. 

Regarding hyaluronic acid in cosmetics, it is important to know that this molecule interacts differently depending on its molecular weight. To make a long story short, hyaluronic acid is a molecule that binds the water found in the skin: it effectively attracts large amounts of water molecules, up to 1000 times its weight, retaining them in the skin. For this reason, it is used to maintain skin hydration and softness.

As we age, the content of hyaluronic acid in our skin decreases, making the skin increasingly dry and less plump. The hyaluronic acid present in cosmetics therefore provides a significant contribution to retaining water molecules on the skin's surface, helping to restore lost hydration and, in turn, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. When we talk about well-hydrated skin, we are referring to skin that is rich in water, which tends to be lost naturally due to a phenomenon called TEWL, or transepidermal water loss. In other words, water evaporates naturally, and hyaluronic acid works by slowing down the rate at which water evaporates. 

The hyaluronic acid found in the cosmetics we purchase is produced through a biotechnological process called biofermentation. The obtained acid is generally collected, purified, and dehydrated until it forms a powder that is added to water to create a gel. 

The benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin 

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is used to achieve various benefits for the skin: 

• Hydrate the skin: as we age, we naturally lose collagen and hyaluronic acid, making the skin more prone to dehydration. Products containing hyaluronic acid help retain moisture in the skin, even in the deeper layers, fully hydrating the skin and keeping it smooth, soft, and healthy. 
• Helps protect the skin barrier: having dry skin can also mean having a compromised skin barrier that causes flaking, acne, and roughness. By binding water molecules, hyaluronic acid keeps the skin hydrated and in turn protects the skin barrier. 
• Fills wrinkles and fine lines: one consequence of increased skin moisture is precisely that it achieves a filling of fine lines and wrinkles. Since it can retain water, it can fill and volumize wrinkles, making them less noticeable. Additionally, it can stimulate collagen production, a protein that gives skin elasticity and plumpness, helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles over time.
• It can help restore the volume and structure of the skin: if you are experiencing a loss of facial volume, hyaluronic acid is a good response to regenerate skin cells and accelerate the healing process. Additionally, it can help repair damaged skin, scars left by acne or sunburns, improving the overall texture of the skin. 
• Protects against oxidation: hyaluronic acid protects the skin from damage caused by free radicals, the unstable molecules that contribute to skin aging. The use of products containing hyaluronic acid can therefore help maintain a youthful appearance and radiant skin. 

Applied to the skin, hyaluronic acid creates a sort of transparent film that retains water on the surface and slows down its evaporation, thereby improving the elasticity and softness of the skin. To optimize the performance of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics, it is used in a fragmented form to allow it to penetrate into the deeper layers of the dermis. What makes a difference in cosmetic products containing hyaluronic acid is therefore the concentration, the composition of the product, and the molecular weight. 

Hyaluronic acid of low, medium, and high molecular weight: the differences 

When we talk about the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid, we refer to its mass or how large a molecule of HA is measured in unified atomic mass units or dalton, kDA. In practice, the length of the HA polymer chain profoundly influences its physical, chemical, and biological properties.

Generally, low molecular weight HA refers to oligomers of about 20 monomers and 7.6 kDA in molecular weight; medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid ranges from 20 to 30 kDa, and high molecular weight starts at 1000 kDA, with its size potentially reaching 25,000 kDA, although often most commercial products do not exceed 4,000 kDA. 

The main differences on the skin of the different molecular weights concern the skin layer in which they will act: 

• a high molecular weight or long-chain hyaluronic acid acts on the surface of the skin by blocking water evaporation, countering skin dehydration; 
• a medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid is able to penetrate the skin, providing vigor to the skin through the water necessary to preserve firmness and elasticity; 
• low molecular weight or short chain hyaluronic acid instead reaches the subcutaneous layers by directly stimulating collagen, the protein responsible for providing tissue firmness and density. This type of hyaluronic acid has a lasting effect on the skin as it helps to retain moisture in the connective tissue. 

Every type of hyaluronic acid is beneficial for skin health, whether it establishes a skin barrier resistant to water evaporation or penetrates deeply and awakens the skin tone from within.

Hyaluronic acid works best when different sizes are used on the skin. Only in this way can hyaluronic acid redefine the contours of the face, helping to maintain cellular firmness, plump the skin naturally, giving volume to the cheeks, achieving a more youthful complexion and radiant, smooth skin. In fact, hyaluronic acid helps to smooth out wrinkles and the first signs of aging thanks to its moisturizing properties, and the anti-aging effect lasts long because it works from the inside, firming the skin and accelerating healing processes. 

Cosmetic products based on hyaluronic acid

Before purchasing any cosmetic product containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to pay attention to the percentage of HA, the molecular weight, and other factors such as the origin of the hyaluronic acid. It is often also referred to as sodium hyaluronate, which is obtained from the reaction between hyaluronic acid and sodium hydroxide. 

Since every product, whether it is a face serum, a mask, or a face cream, is different from the other, its composition also influences the effects of the hyaluronic acid contained. The concentration ranging from 0.25% to 1.75% of hyaluronic acid is quite low and therefore not very effective; on the contrary, a concentration that is too high could irritate the skin.

For this reason, the best percentages of hyaluronic acid often remain around 2%, especially regarding serums. It is therefore a balanced concentration that can be good for hydrating the skin. In some cases, however, it is necessary to consider the composition of the product and its purpose: the synergy with which some active ingredients work allows for enhancing the effects of hyaluronic acid and improving its absorption, for example, or stimulating the production of natural hyaluronic acid. 

LeLang boasts, within its cosmetic products, various concentrations of hyaluronic acid indicated for specific needs and skin types. The face cream Hyaluronic Advance features a combination of different patented hyaluronic acids with varying molecular weights. 

Hyalo Marine: a skin surface activator

Derived from algae, this biotechnological ingredient is rich in polysaccharides and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Extracted from the Macrocystis Pyrifera algae, it can extend from the seabed for over 60 meters in order to reach sunlight and gather energy. It contains vitamins and trace elements that act on the skin by inhibiting metalloproteinases and helping to maintain the balance of the dermis. The polysaccharides and hyaluronic acid work together to create a smooth and even surface layer, elastic skin, and a surprising lifting effect, all while preserving the physiological moisture of the skin surface and minimizing the TEWL effect. 

Hyacare® Filler 

Hyauronic Advance is an innovative face cream that contains HyaCare®, another high-purity polysaccharide: it is a three-dimensional network hyaluronic acid that instantly contributes to the reduction of facial wrinkles and softens fine lines while improving skin elasticity. 

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid is known for its use as a dermal filler, but this type can be used topically to achieve the same effects as a filler. 

Phylcare® Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5XS + 0.5HW 

This natural low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate has a highly moisturizing effect that almost immediately improves skin elasticity by reducing the depth of wrinkles. Even in low concentrations, Phylcare® has a moisturizing effect precisely due to the molecular structure that creates a thin film on the skin, ensuring smoothness and skin firmness, and within innovative formulations, it enhances the absorption and action of relipidizing agents. Phylcare® has antioxidant and protective properties, stimulates wound healing, and improves skin tone. 

Microalgae Polysaccharide ESP Seafill 

This compound of hyaluronic acid, galactose, galacturonic acid, glucose, mannose, and N-Acetyl-glucosamine has an immediate filler effect on the extracellular matrix. The hyaluronic units of ESP Seafill ensure that it binds to hyaluronic acid receptors such as Layilin with an affinity greater than 60%: Layilin is a receptor of the lectin family involved in the activation of cell regeneration and tissue remodeling processes. Biologically, ESP Seafill acts as a collagen booster since the sugars it contains, including glucuronic acid and N-Acetyl-glucosamine, are building blocks of hyaluronic acid, and the intake of these sugars in the skin increases the synthesis of hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts.

The Hyaluronic Advance Face Cream is a highly moisturizing product with protective power that overall improves the appearance of the skin and wrinkles.