Semi di sesamo e olio vegetale usato nella cura della pelle
Ingredient Glossary

Sesame oil for the skin: why it doesn’t go rancid

Elisa Avalleof Elisa Avalle , founder of LeLang

3 min read

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Sesame oil is one of the oldest known vegetable oils, and in cosmetics it has a characteristic that sets it apart from almost all others: it does not go rancid easily—not because someone has stabilized it, but thanks to molecules it naturally contains.

What sesame oil is and what it contains

It is obtained by pressing the seeds of Sesamum indicum. Its fatty acid profile is balanced: approximately half linoleic acid, an omega-6 that contributes to the composition of barrier lipids, and half oleic acid, which provides slip and a nourishing feel.

The interesting part, however, is something else. Sesame contains lignans—sesamin, sesamolin, and sesamol—a class of antioxidant compounds that protects unsaturated fatty acids from oxidation. This is why this oil has a much longer shelf life than oils with a similar profile, and why it performs well in formulas even alongside delicate active ingredients.

On the label, it is listed as Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil. Be careful not to confuse it with toasted sesame oil for cooking: that oil is dark amber in color and has an intense aroma, and it is a food product, not a cosmetic ingredient.

What it does for the skin

Linoleic acid is the most functionally relevant component: it is a precursor to ceramides, and skin with a compromised skin barrier often contains reduced levels of it. Applying it topically means providing a building block for reconstruction.

The lignans add an antioxidant contribution that translates into two practical benefits: the formula lasts longer, and the skin receives additional protection against the peroxidation of its own lipids.

The texture is medium—not as lightweight as hazelnut oil, and not as heavy as oils that are very rich in oleic acid. It absorbs within a reasonable amount of time and leaves the skin soft without a persistent film.

Who it is suitable for

It is a good choice for dry skin, skin that becomes rough in winter, and evening treatments where the goal is to nourish. In our formulas, it is included in the night serum, together with argan, prickly pear, and rosehip oils: a blend designed precisely because no single oil covers the full range of fatty acids the skin needs.

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Comedogenic ratings vary, but they are generally considered low to medium. As with all oils, the response is individual: anyone whose skin is highly reactive to oils should test it first on a small area.

Frequently asked questions about sesame oil

Does sesame oil protect against the sun?

No, and this is a widespread and dangerous misconception. Some vegetable oils have a measurable but extremely low filtering effect that is entirely insufficient: they cannot in any way replace sunscreen.

Can I use supermarket sesame oil?

Untoasted food-grade oil is chemically similar, but it does not offer the same guarantees of purity and cosmetic grade. Toasted oil should be avoided completely.

Is it suitable for oily skin?

Its high linoleic acid content works in its favor, because oily skin tends to contain less of it in its sebum. It is still an oil, though: for very oily skin, it is better used in balanced formulas rather than on its own.

Should people allergic to sesame avoid it?

Yes, as a precaution. Sesame allergy is a recognized food allergy, and although topical application is different from ingestion, it is not worth taking the risk.

Is it also suitable for hair?

It is a traditional use that is very widespread in India. On the hair fiber, it does what oils with good affinity do: it reduces friction and limits protein loss during washing.