"Let's talk about adaptogenic skincare and functional ingredients for skin wellness."

Cosmetics is a science with deep roots in nature and its fruits that, through constant research and innovation, finds new and interesting ways to bring well-being through the skin. Adaptogens are plant-based substances like ginseng, maca, or ginger that help the body respond to physical, emotional, or environmental stressors. An adaptogenic plant must therefore be able to restore the organism to balance and provide health benefits. 

In fact, we all use or have used adaptogenic ingredients in our lives, and although they have been used in Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic tradition for hundreds of years, they are now experiencing their moment of popularity and not just in circles dedicated to natural health.

Even cosmetic science has begun to harness the benefits of adaptogens to improve skin health, and they are proving to be incredibly effective. 

What are adaptogens?

Adaptogens are simply herbs that reduce fatigue and the toxic effects of stress. They are called adaptogens because they adapt to what the body needs through a regulatory function. 

The term "adaptogen" was coined in 1947 by NV Lazarev, a Soviet pharmacologist, to refer to all the essential ingredients not only to regulate the body's response to stress but also to provide benefits to the body without toxicity issues with long-term use. Starting from the 1940s, thousands of studies on adaptogens have been conducted, mainly in the Soviet Union, Korea, and China.

It has been discovered, for example, that eleuthero (also known as Siberian ginseng) increases the lifespan of unicellular animals, while rhodiola (also known as Arctic root) has been shown to reduce the perception of fatigue in humans.

Adaptogens are therefore plants or fungi that grow in inhospitable areas of the planet, such as deserts or difficult terrains, and thus possess a remarkable ability to adapt. These organisms are among the most resilient in nature and are capable of surviving the most extreme conditions. 

In addition to oral supplements, adaptogens have proven their effectiveness in topical skin care products. This is because stress and anxiety can cause inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, hives, and alopecia. Stress, and thus elevated levels of cortisol, affect the immune system which creates inflammation that can manifest as a flare-up of other conditions.

It is believed that adaptogens interact with the body's stress response system, which includes the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis that plays an important role in regulating the body's response to stressors and releases hormones such as cortisol.

It is believed that adaptogens help to balance cortisol levels, preventing excessive spikes or chronic increases that can be harmful to the body. Cortisol can influence the levels of other hormones that may play a role in skin conditions. Internal stress factors can therefore affect the appearance of the skin, as can mental anxiety and nervousness. The skin is also continuously stressed by environmental factors such as exposure to UV sunlight, pollution, blue light, and smoke. 

The benefits of adaptogenic ingredients for the skin 

"This is where adaptogenic products for the skin come into play. Just as adaptogens like ginseng or maca can enhance concentration and endurance, while others like valerian root or calendula can promote feelings of calm and well-being, the adaptogens used in beauty products can help restore the natural well-being of the skin."

They do it in two ways: short term, they help restore the skin to its baseline state after exposure to internal or external stress. Long term, they protect the skin from future effects of stress, including signs of skin aging, and some of them are suitable for awakening the microcirculation, thus helping to soothe wrinkles and strengthen the skin.

The main benefits that can be derived from adaptogenic ingredients are: 

• Antioxidant benefits: Antioxidants are chemical substances that help protect our cells and tissues from damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are highly reactive chemical substances that can induce oxidative stress, causing cellular damage and inflammation, as well as potentially contributing to a variety of diseases. Free radicals are neutralized by antioxidants that provide them with electrons. 
• Anti-inflammatory benefits: inflammation is the body's natural response to adverse stimuli such as infections or injuries. Chronic inflammation, on the other hand, can be harmful and is often linked to a variety of chronic disorders. Anti-inflammatory chemicals help control the body's inflammatory response, reducing the risk of chronic inflammation.

Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory chemicals both play a fundamental role in skin health. The skin, as the largest organ of the body, serves as a barrier against external stimuli, which is why its health is essential not only for aesthetics but also for the overall well-being of the organism. Antioxidants work in skin care in various ways: 

• Protection from free radicals: the production of free radicals in the skin can be caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and stress. Antioxidants help neutralize free radicals, thus preventing oxidative stress that can damage skin cells and lead to the onset of premature aging.
• Collagen preservation: antioxidants like vitamin C are necessary for collagen synthesis, a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin as well as to the joints. By protecting against oxidative stress, antioxidants can help maintain collagen levels and promote youthful-looking skin.
• Reduction of hyperpigmentation: some antioxidants, such as vitamin E and niacinamide, can help reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the overproduction of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color.
• Wound Healing: antioxidants can aid in wound healing by reducing inflammation and promoting tissue repair. For example, vitamin E can help in the healing of minor wounds and scars.

Anti-inflammatory compounds play a different role for skin health: 

• Reduction of skin irritation: anti-inflammatory compounds can relieve skin inflammation caused by conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. They alleviate redness, itching, and discomfort caused by these conditions.
• Acne Prevention: a condition such as chronic inflammation can contribute to the development of acne. Anti-inflammatory compounds can help in managing acne by reducing inflammation of the sebaceous glands and preventing clogged pores. 
• UV Protection: UV rays from the sun can cause skin inflammation. The anti-inflammatory ingredients found in some natural oils (such as chamomile and calendula) can help reduce the inflammatory response caused by sun exposure.
• Maintenance of the skin barrier function: an inflammatory state can compromise the skin's barrier function, causing dryness and sensitivity. Anti-inflammatory compounds help maintain the skin's protective barrier, keeping it hydrated and resilient.

An adaptogenic ingredient used in cosmetics is, for example, Turmeric, naturally rich in antioxidants, such as curcumin, and ideal for combating inflammation, evening out skin tone, and improving brightness.

Adaptogenic ingredients are truly numerous and range from ashwagandha to rhodiola, from goji berries, but often the most effective within formulations are adaptogenic molecules such as ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides.

The best adaptogenic ingredients 

The primary goal of adaptogenic skincare is to strengthen the skin barrier, and cosmetic products must adapt to the various needs demanded by modern times, such as climate change or the continuous stress we are subjected to, thanks to plants with high resilience that can adapt to the specific needs of the skin.

A very popular adaptogenic ingredient in skincare products is vitamin B3 or niacinamide, a very powerful antioxidant and particularly regenerating that protects cellular energy and repairs skin DNA damage by reducing the negative effects of UV sun exposure. Additionally, niacinamide increases the production of ceramides, which are the lipids that help maintain a healthy and resilient skin barrier. Finally, it has a brightening and illuminating power, as it improves hyperpigmentation by reducing the transfer of cells that cause pigmentation, called melanocytes.

Another plant from which an adaptogenic ingredient with formidable anti-inflammatory properties is Kudzu from which Pueraria Lobata is derived. The extract of Pueraria Lobata is a powerful stimulant of the synthetic elements that make up the structure of the skin. Its detoxifying effect stimulates deep cellular renewal, improving the appearance of fine wrinkles and early lines. Ideal for postmenopause to achieve firmer and more radiant skin thanks to its high content of isoflavones. The extract of Pueraria Lobata roots also has an anti-inflammatory effect that can relieve red, irritated, and particularly sensitive skin. As a powerful isoflavone, puerarin acts directly on the extracellular matrix providing various benefits. 

Finally, among the adaptogenic ingredients selected by LeLang for skin wellness, we find the extract of Tephrosia Purpurea seeds, a plant of Indian origin that grows in remote areas and is used in Ayurvedic tradition for its extraordinary benefits. The extract, synthesized as Neurophroline™, is used as a neurocosmetic ingredient capable of inhibiting cortisol production in the skin and, at the same time, releasing beta-endorphins and dopamine, providing a sense of well-being directly on the skin. In this way, the reduction of skin stress and the improvement of the epidermal matrix allow the skin to regain tone and elasticity, as well as a healthy and radiant complexion. 

Adaptogenic ingredients are selected in cosmetics precisely for their innate ability to improve skin health in a way that is functional to the skin type and according to its needs.

The list of adaptogenic ingredients for the skin is getting longer and more updated thanks to continuous innovation and research in the field, and thanks to cosmetic companies capable of selecting the best ingredients to refine their formulations. 

How to choose products for adaptogenic skincare 

When selecting adaptogen-based skincare products, it is important to consider the product's ingredients, the formulation as a whole, and especially your skin's needs. To choose the right products, you should rely on research-backed ingredients with certifications. Check the ingredient list and their concentrations, trying to avoid harmful additives such as parabens, sulfates, and artificial fragrances as much as possible. 

Adaptogens respond to a specific need or are suitable for specific problems. There are soothing adaptogens such as chamomile or calendula, ideal for treating discomfort from inflammation, or adaptogens with antioxidant properties that act on wrinkles.

Furthermore, the adaptogen should be considered based on the type of product and therefore its use as a cleanser, toner, serum, or moisturizer. In any case, the advice of an expert is always essential if specific skin issues arise. Request a free consultation to find the products most suitable for your needs. 

Skincare is a personal journey that is never the same for everyone. This is the mantra of LeLang, which selects natural origin ingredients with highly functional properties, certified, to create specific formulations for every skin type.