Skincare Acids: the ultimate guide to BHA, AHA, and PHA (exfoliation)

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Exfoliation is a fundamental component of every skincare routine. It not only helps skin cells regenerate but also deeply cleanses and renews the skin, preparing it for all treatments, stimulates subcutaneous microcirculation, and thus slows the appearance of wrinkles and visible marks.

Unfortunately, however, the different effects of exfoliating acids are not always well known, and increasingly often, unconscious use can cause serious skin problems. There are different types of exfoliating acids, each better suited to a specific skin type or need. And we are here to discover in detail the characteristics of each acid and which skin or need they correspond to best. Let’s find out together.

What exfoliating acids are in skincare

The exfoliating acids AHA, BHA, and PHA are ingredients capable of removing dead cells on the skin surface, promoting cell renewal. Through their chemical, not physical, action, exfoliating acids break the bonds between corneocytes and thus stimulate cell turnover. Some penetrate more deeply, while others have a superficial action that enhances complexion by brightening the skin, smoothing the surface, and purifying the facial skin, with an anti-aging effect, minimizing wrinkles and marks and renewing tissues.

Chemical exfoliation vs mechanical exfoliation

Often there is confusion when talking about exfoliation, and many tend to think of classic scrubs, those containing microgranules that scrape away dead cells. This type of abrasion is called mechanical exfoliation and works precisely through friction. Often more suitable for the body than the face, mechanical exfoliation is a concrete aid to improve skin density and elasticity, but also as a relaxing treatment for the body that stimulates circulation thanks to circular massages. This is the case with our product Relax Body Scrub based on salt crystals and nourishing shea butter, ideal for the body. 

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A mechanical scrub can also be obtained with a classic abrasive sponge that smooths the skin, often also available for the face, but if used without gentleness, they can remove more than necessary, irritating and compromising sensitive skin.

Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, works in a much smarter and controlled way. No rubbing, no abrasions.

AHA, BHA, and PHA acids dissolve the bonds that hold dead cells together, allowing them to detach naturally. The result is uniformly renewed skin, without micro-lesions and above all more predictable because you can modulate the strength by choosing concentration, acid type, and frequency of use.

Chemical exfoliation has several advantages:

• It is uniform because it acts on the entire surface evenly without depending on finger pressure, etc.
• You can control exfoliation by choosing the acid best suited to your skin type
• It is also compatible with sensitive skin: many formulas, especially PHA or AHA, or enzymatic ones, are less aggressive than traditional scrubs. For example, consider Mandelic Acid, an alpha hydroxy acid suitable for more sensitive skin.

Why acids are important in the facial routine

Acids are not an “extra” for those who want perfect skin: they are true allies to support the natural processes of the epidermis. They stimulate cell turnover, that is, the skin’s ability to renew itself spontaneously. With age, but also due to stress, pollution, sun, and intense lifestyles, this natural process tends to slow down, and the skin appears duller, uneven, and marked.

A good regular exfoliation allows you to:

• improve natural brightness,
• make the texture finer and more even,
• reduce light spots and discolorations,
• reduce small superficial wrinkles,
• leave the skin much more receptive to subsequent treatments.

And this point is fundamental: when you remove the layer of dead cells, everything you apply afterward penetrates better. Retinoids, vitamins, peptides, moisturizers: every active ingredient works more and better on well-renewed skin.

AHA or Alpha Hydroxy Acids: what they are and what they are for

AHAs are water-soluble acids often also called fruit acids because of their natural origin. They act enzymatically on the skin surface working on uniformity, cell turnover, and skin brightness. Ideal for those with dull, rough, or lackluster skin. One of the best-known AHA acids is certainly Glycolic Acid which, with its very small molecule, easily penetrates the skin and visibly smooths texture, lightens superficial spots, and gives immediate brightness. Following it are Lactic Acid, gentler, moisturizing, and better tolerated, perfect for dehydrated or dry skin, but also Mandelic Acid which has a larger molecule that penetrates slowly.

Mandelic Acid is compatible with combination but also sensitive skin, ideal for light imperfections and to avoid irritation. Mandelic Enzymatic Soft Peel is the ideal peel based on Mandelic Acid to be used once a week to renew tissues and improve skin appearance. 

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With the action of bromelain and papain, this acid allows the removal of superficial dead cells without irritating or reddening the skin. Enriched with Chamomile Extract and Aloe Vera for a gentler but functional treatment.

Alpha hydroxy acids are indicated to achieve bright skin, a more even tone, reduce superficial spots, and have smoother skin. They can be safely used by those with dry, dull, sun-damaged skin or fine lines. The key, as always, is graduality: small steps, great results.

BHA or Beta Hydroxy Acids: what they are and what they are for

BHAs are oil-soluble acids, meaning they can dissolve sebum and impurities inside pores. The best known and practically the only one used in cosmetics is Salicylic Acid.

BHAs are the best friends of those who have:

• oily or combination skin,
• enlarged pores and blackheads,
• acne-prone skin.

Salicylic acid, in fact, penetrates the pores, frees sebum plugs, reduces the appearance of comedones, and controls shine. A real blessing for those seeking deep, internal, and targeted exfoliation. BHAs are perfect for their sebum-regulating action but also for their anti-inflammatory powers, perfect for red or inflamed pimples, and soothing. Sometimes Salicylic Acid can be too intense for very dry and reactive skin, but within formulations, it is modulated to be effective but not invasive. Moreover, Salicylic Acid is often used in cleansing products, such as our flagship product for acne treatment, Cleansing Active Mousse, based on Salicylic Acid, Burdock, Betaine, and Tea Tree Oil, but also in leave-in products, i.e., those that do not need to be removed.

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Acnerebal Serum is a serum based on Zincidone and Niacinamide enriched with a percentage of Salicylic Acid that prevents the onset of pimples, outbreaks, or irritations.

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PHA: the new generation of gentle acids

PHAs (e.g., gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) are the “next gen” for those seeking performance and gentleness. Several studies show that PHAs offer superficial exfoliation with a moisturizing and protective action on the barrier. They also have antioxidant properties that help the skin protect itself from external aggressions while improving elasticity and hydration. PHAs are perfect for those with easily reddened skin and for all those who do not tolerate AHAs well due to the burning sensation. Basically, PHAs offer a gradual, almost “polite” exfoliation that responds to the skin itself and improves texture without risking the skin barrier.

So:

• they increase brightness gently,
• help smooth fine lines,
• strengthen the barrier,
• can coexist with other actives in the routine, with the right progression.

In short, PHAs are the “smart” exfoliation for those who want many benefits with few risks.

How to choose between AHA, BHA, and PHA based on skin type

Skincare is not an exact science, and understanding which acid to choose is never an abstract exercise: the skin communicates, sends signals, makes you understand what it needs and what is too much. From here comes a more conscious, personalized, and much more effective approach.

Skin that “feels tight,” that marks easily, that tends to become dull and rough needs an exfoliation that does not dry it out further. Here come into play PHAs and gentle AHAs, such as lactic or mandelic acid. These acids work on the surface, remove dead cells that make the skin dull, and at the same time maintain or even improve skin hydration. The key word is graduality: 1–2 times a week, preferably in the evening, followed by rich creams with lipids and film-forming ingredients that strengthen the barrier.

When pores are more visible, shine appears promptly by midday, and blackheads seem like permanent guests, BHAs become truly indispensable. Salicylic acid enters the pore, dissolves sebum and impurities, and reduces the risk of new imperfections. Sometimes, combining it with a light AHA can improve overall brightness and help maintain a more even texture. However, be careful: the risk is to overdo it and get the opposite effect, that is, more fragile and reactive skin.

In the presence of easy redness, burning, occasional dermatitis, or compromised barrier, it is better to avoid aggressive approaches. PHAs are the safest choice: they exfoliate slowly, help hydrate, and even improve barrier function.

In conclusion: how to include acids in the routine, frequency, and combinations

Introduce acids as you would introduce a new ingredient into your diet: little by little, gently, but consistently. Understanding when and how to use acids makes the difference between splendid results and unwanted irritations. The secret is to balance exfoliation, hydration, and repair. If you want to start, follow a simple but effective rule: 1 or at most 2 times a week, with moderate concentrations and only in the evening. In just 10 days or two weeks, the skin will have adapted, and you will begin to notice benefits in terms of brightness and smoothness.