Wrinkles around the mouth: why they appear and how to reduce them

Wrinkles around the mouth are often the first to become noticeable, even on a face that otherwise shows no signs. This is not just an impression: the perioral area combines two unfavorable conditions that no other area of the face experiences together.

The first is movement. Talking, smiling, drinking, sleeping on one side: the orbicularis oris muscle contracts thousands of times a day, even while we sleep. The second is a lack of sebaceous glands: the skin around the lips produces very little hydrolipidic film, so it becomes dehydrated more quickly and develops lines sooner.

If you are looking for a surgical solution, this is not the right article. Here you will learn where these lines come from, which active ingredients really make sense for this area, and how long a consistent cosmetic routine can take to change the appearance of the skin.

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What are the wrinkles around the mouth?

Two very different signs, caused by different factors and responding to different treatments, are grouped under the same name. Distinguishing between them is the first useful step.

• Perioral wrinkles, also known as smoker's lines or "barcode lines": small vertical folds just above the upper lip. They are contraction wrinkles: they form because the skin is repeatedly compressed in the same direction;
• Nasolabial wrinkles, or smile lines: grooves that descend from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth. They are not contraction wrinkles but folds caused by loss of support: they are due to the resorption of deep fat and sagging tissue, and cosmetics can do much less for them.

They generally first appear between the ages of 40 and 50, but in smokers, people with thin skin, or those who have had a great deal of sun exposure, they may appear before the age of 35. The upper lip is almost always more marked than the lower one because it is involved in most movements.

The main causes

Repeated contraction

Every repeated fold in the same direction, on skin that has lost elasticity, tends to become permanent. Some wrinkles also form due to nighttime compression: sleeping on your side or stomach presses your face against the pillow for hours, forcing your lips into an unnatural position. It is an underestimated factor, and the only one that can be addressed by changing your habit or pillowcase.

Smoking

Cigarette smoking acts on two fronts simultaneously: nicotine constricts blood vessels and reduces the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin, while the act of inhaling itself forces the upper lip into a repeated, identical contraction. This is compounded by the exposure of the superficial layers to substances that accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

The sun

Unprotected exposure is the leading factor in premature skin aging, and the area around the lips is one of the areas most often left uncovered: sunscreen is applied to the face, but much less so along the lip line.

Other factors

• The physiological loss of volume: over the years, the lips become thinner and the tissue surrounding them loses support, making existing lines more noticeable;
• Dehydration, which appears sooner in an area with few lipids than elsewhere and weakens the skin barrier;
• Insufficient sleep, stress, and a diet rich in simple sugars, which promotes glycation of collagen fibers;
• Genetic predisposition, which determines skin thickness and the quality of elastic fibers.

How to reduce wrinkles around the lips

Hydrate, don't just occlude

There is a technical point that makes a difference in this area: many creams work by creating a layer that limits water evaporation. This is perfectly fine if the skin is already hydrated, but if it is dry, it is only half the job. It is better to add water with a serum and then seal it in with cream: the difference between the two products is explained in the article on serum and cream.

The benchmark hydrating active remains hyaluronic acid, preferably present in multiple molecular weights: the high-molecular-weight form works on the surface and visibly smooths fine lines from the very first applications.

Exfoliate sparingly

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the surface and allows subsequent active ingredients to work better. But on thin skin, too much exfoliation without adequate hydration leaves the skin irritated and tight, worsening the appearance of lines instead of improving it. Once or twice a week is enough, preferably with a gentle enzymatic exfoliant or mandelic acid.

Actives that make sense for the lip contour

Not everything that works on the face makes sense here. In an area that is constantly moving, you need active ingredients that work on firmness and tissue quality, not just on the surface:

• Vitamin C, which supports collagen synthesis and acts as an antioxidant: you can find details in the guide to ascorbic acid;
• Peptides, which act on tone and the response to muscle contraction: an overview is provided in the article on peptides in cosmetics;
• Retinol, the most extensively documented ingredient for fine lines, but it should be introduced gradually in this delicate area: the guidelines are in the retinol guide;
• Essential fatty acids, which compensate for the area's low sebum levels.

FeruliC + HA combines vitamin C, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid in an antioxidant synergy that supports firmness.

Collagenetic Serum instead works on skin density, which is especially useful where the skin has become thinner.

The evening lipid component

At night, you can pair it with an intensive serum based on plant oils: essential fatty acids promote firmness and elasticity, and the skin in this area, having few sebaceous glands, particularly benefits from an external lipid supply.

Small daily adjustments

Avoid smoking and alcohol, limit simple sugars, and choose fruit and vegetables rich in antioxidants: these habits improve overall health and are reflected in the appearance of the skin.

And above all, sun protection every day, extending it to the edge of the lips, which almost everyone skips. At least SPF 30, preferably 50.

An honest clarification: a cosmetic product can improve the appearance of wrinkles around the lips by acting on hydration, firmness, and skin quality, and results on fine lines and dehydration are often visible. It does not eliminate them. For changes to volume or deep folds, aesthetic medicine treatments are available; these fall within the scope of medical professionals and should be assessed with a specialist.

Frequently asked questions about wrinkles around the mouth

How long does it take to see results?

For dehydration lines, the change is rapid, often within two weeks, because restoring the area's water content is enough. Established wrinkles require two to three months of consistent use—the time needed for tissue renewal to produce a visible effect.

Why does lipstick bleed into wrinkles?

Because the product migrates along the vertical creases, which act like small channels. This is a sign that the lines are now established and not merely caused by dehydration. A well-absorbed moisturizing base applied before makeup reduces the phenomenon.

Do facial exercises help?

Not for perioral wrinkles, and they can be counterproductive: these lines are caused precisely by repeated contraction of the orbicularis muscle, so exercising it further does not help.

Can you use eye cream around the lips?

Yes, and it is often a good idea: these are two areas with similar characteristics—thin skin, few sebaceous glands, and constant movement. Formulas designed for the eye area have the right texture and gentleness.

At what age is it best to start treating the area?

Around the age of thirty, when prevention costs little and delivers a lot. Earlier if there are accelerating factors—smoking, frequent sun exposure, or very thin skin.

Conclusion

Before considering fillers or other treatments, it is worth knowing that a well-structured routine and a few good habits can make a real difference to the lines around the mouth, especially when you address them while they are still superficial.

The skin in this area is thin, low in lipids, and stressed every day: it needs water, oils, and consistency. If you want to understand which protocol is right for your situation, we can discuss it together.