Wrinkles around the mouth: why they appear and how to reduce them

Lines around the mouth are often the first to become noticeable, even on a face that otherwise shows no signs. This is not just an impression: the perioral area combines two unfavorable conditions that no other area of the face has together.

The first is movement. Talking, smiling, drinking, sleeping on one side: the orbicularis oris muscle contracts thousands of times a day, even while we sleep. The second is the lack of sebaceous glands: around the lips, the skin produces very little hydrolipidic film, so it becomes dehydrated more quickly and develops visible lines sooner.

If you are looking for a surgical solution, this is not the right article. Here you will find out where these lines come from, which active ingredients really make sense for this area, and how long it takes for a consistent cosmetic routine to change the appearance of the skin.

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What are the lines around the mouth?

Two very different signs, caused by different factors and responding to different treatments, are grouped under the same name. Distinguishing between them is the first useful step.

• Perioral wrinkles, also known as smoker's lines or "barcode lines": small vertical folds just above the upper lip. They are wrinkles caused by muscle contraction: they form because the skin is repeatedly compressed in the same direction;
• Nasolabial folds, or smile lines: grooves that descend from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth. They are not wrinkles caused by muscle contraction, but folds caused by loss of support: they result from the resorption of deep fat and sagging tissue, and cosmetics can do much less for them.

They generally first appear between the ages of 40 and 50, but in smokers, people with thin skin, or those who have had a lot of sun exposure, they may appear before the age of 35. The upper lip is almost always more marked than the lower lip because it is involved in most movements.

Lines around the mouth: what are they?

When we talk about lines around the mouth, we are actually referring to two different signs, and it is worth distinguishing between them before deciding what to use:

• Nasolabial folds, which descend from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth. They become more pronounced when you smile and, over the years, remain visible even when the face is at rest;
• Marionette lines, which start at the corners of the mouth and descend toward the chin. They give the face a tired or stern expression even when it is not.

They have a common origin: they do not result from muscle contraction, like the vertical lines above the lip, but from loss of support. Over time, the volume of the deep fat pads decreases, the bone structure remodels, and the less firm skin follows the force of gravity. Smiling makes them more visible, but it is not their main cause.

What skincare can do for wrinkles around the mouth

The key is to be precise about what to expect. A cream does not fill in a crease caused by volume loss. It can, however, improve the quality of the surrounding skin: when it is more hydrated, firmer, and more elastic, the crease looks less defined and the area less dull. The useful active ingredients are those that work on skin density — vitamin C, peptides, retinol introduced gradually — together with hyaluronic acid for the surface. And daily sun protection, because the sun accelerates collagen loss precisely in the layers that support the area.

When applying the products, massage from the bottom upward, from the corners of the mouth toward the cheekbones, without pulling the skin.

If the crease is deep and remains visible even when your face is relaxed, skincare helps keep the skin in good condition, but lost volume can only be restored with aesthetic medicine treatments, to be assessed with a doctor.

The main causes

Repeated contraction

Every repeated crease in the same direction, on skin that has lost elasticity, tends to become permanent. Some wrinkles also form from nighttime compression: sleeping on your side or stomach presses your face against the pillow for hours, forcing your lips into an unnatural position. It is an underestimated factor, and the only one that can be addressed by changing your habit or pillowcase.

Smoke

Cigarette smoke acts on two fronts at the same time: nicotine constricts the blood vessels and reduces the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin, while the act of inhaling itself causes the upper lip to contract repeatedly in exactly the same way. On top of this, the surface layers are exposed to substances that accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

The sun

Unprotected exposure is the primary factor in premature skin aging, and the area around the lips is one of the areas most often left uncovered: sunscreen is applied to the face, but much less so along the lip line.

Other factors

• Physiological volume loss: over the years, the lips become thinner and the tissue around them loses support, making existing lines more noticeable;
• Dehydration, which appears sooner in an area low in lipids than elsewhere and weakens the skin barrier;
• Insufficient sleep, stress, and a diet rich in simple sugars, which promotes the glycation of collagen fibers;
• Genetic predisposition, which determines skin thickness and the quality of elastic fibers.

How to reduce wrinkles around the lips

Hydrate, don't just occlude

There is a technical point that makes a difference in this area: many creams work by creating a layer that limits water evaporation. This is perfectly fine if the skin is already hydrated, but if it is dry, it is only half the job. It is best to add water with a serum and then seal it in with cream: the difference between the two products is explained in the article on serums and creams.

The go-to hydrating active ingredient remains hyaluronic acid, ideally present in multiple molecular weights: the high-molecular-weight form works on the surface and visibly smooths fine lines from the first applications.

Exfoliate in moderation

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the surface and allows subsequent active ingredients to work more effectively. But on a thin area, too much exfoliation without adequate hydration leaves the skin irritated and tight, worsening the appearance of lines instead of improving it. Once or twice a week is enough, preferably with a gentle enzyme exfoliant or mandelic acid.

Active ingredients that make sense for the lip contour

Not everything that works on the face makes sense here. On an area in constant motion, you need active ingredients that work on firmness and tissue quality, not just on the surface:

• Vitamin C, which supports collagen synthesis and is an antioxidant: you can find the details in the guide to ascorbic acid;
• Peptides, which act on tone and the response to muscle contraction: an overview is provided in the article on peptides in cosmetics;
• Retinol, the most extensively documented ingredient for fine lines, but it should be introduced gradually on this delicate area: the guidelines are in the retinol guide;
• Essential fatty acids, which compensate for the area's low sebum levels.

FeruliC + HA combines vitamin C, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid in an antioxidant synergy that supports firmness.

Collagenetic Serum instead works on skin density, which is particularly useful where the skin has become thinner.

The lipid component for the evening

At night, you can pair an intensive serum based on plant oils: essential fatty acids promote firmness and elasticity, and the skin in this area, having few sebaceous glands, particularly benefits from an external lipid supply.

Small daily precautions

Avoid smoking and alcohol, limit simple sugars, and choose fruit and vegetables rich in antioxidants: these habits improve overall health and are reflected in the appearance of the skin.

And above all, daily sun protection, extending it to the edge of the lips, which almost everyone skips. At least SPF 30, preferably 50.

An honest clarification: a cosmetic product can improve the appearance of wrinkles around the lips by acting on hydration, firmness, and skin quality, and results on fine lines and dehydration are often visible. It does not eliminate them. For interventions targeting volume or deep folds, aesthetic medicine treatments are available; these are medical procedures that should be assessed with a specialist.

Frequently asked questions about wrinkles around the mouth

How long does it take to see results?

For dehydration lines, the change is rapid, often within two weeks, because it is enough to restore the area's water content. For established wrinkles, two to three months of consistent use are needed - the time required for tissue renewal to produce a visible effect.

Why does lipstick bleed into wrinkles?

Because the product migrates along the vertical creases, which act like small channels. This is a sign that the lines are now established and are not caused solely by dehydration. A well-absorbed hydrating base applied before makeup reduces the phenomenon.

Are facial exercises useful?

Not for perioral wrinkles, and they can be counterproductive: these lines arise precisely from the repeated contraction of the orbicularis muscle, so training it further does not help.

Can you use eye contour cream on the lip contour?

Yes, and it is often a good idea: these are two areas with similar characteristics - thin skin, few sebaceous glands, and constant movement. Formulas designed for the eye area have the right texture and gentleness.

At what age is it best to start treating the area?

Around the age of thirty, when prevention costs little and delivers a lot. Earlier if there are accelerating factors - smoking, frequent sun exposure, or very thin skin.

Conclusion

Before considering fillers or other treatments, it is worth knowing that a well-structured routine and a few good habits can make a real difference to the lines around the mouth, especially when you address them while they are still superficial.

The skin in this area is thin, low in lipids, and subjected to daily stress: it needs water, oils, and consistency. If you want to understand which protocol is right for your situation, we can discuss it together.