Calendula for the skin: what it does and how to choose it

Calendula is one of the most frequently mentioned ingredients in natural cosmetics and one of the least explained. Everyone calls it soothing, but almost no one says which molecule makes this possible—and that is a shame, because that molecule is also the way to determine whether a calendula ingredient is high quality or not.

[INDICE:h2]

What is calendula?

The calendula used in cosmetics is Calendula officinalis, a plant in the Asteraceae family with characteristic orange flower heads. The name comes from the Latin calendae, the first day of the month, because of its almost continuous flowering.

In INCI, it appears as Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract when it is an extract of the flower heads, or as Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil in the case of an infused oil, meaning flowers macerated in a vegetable oil.

Beware of a common misconception: “Mexican calendula” or “African marigold” is not calendula. It is Tagetes, a different genus whose derivatives have their own usage restrictions. If you read Tagetes on the label, you are not reading calendula.

Faradiol: the molecule that makes calendula soothing

This is the answer no one gives. It is not the flower itself that soothes, but a specific group of molecules.

A paper published in Planta Medica by Della Loggia and colleagues fractionated the extract of the flower heads to identify the components responsible for the topical activity. The results identified triterpenoids as the main contributors, with the faradiol monoester being the most relevant among them because of its quantitative prevalence.

But the study’s most useful finding is something else. The authors observed that the activity of the different extracts was proportional to their faradiol monoester content, and they proposed this content as a quality-control parameter for calendula preparations.

In other words: “contains calendula” says almost nothing. What matters is how much faradiol that extract contains, which depends on the cultivated variety, the time of harvest, and the extraction method.

The variability is not theoretical: a study that quantified eight triterpenoid monoesters in ten different varieties of Calendula officinalis found marked differences in active-compound content from one cultivar to another. This is why, with a plant-based raw material, the supply chain matters as much as the botanical species.

What calendula does for the skin

Alongside triterpenoids, two other groups of molecules are at work.

Flavonoids—with quercetin and isorhamnetin among the most abundant—provide antioxidant action against free radicals. Carotenoids, responsible for the orange color, complete the profile. And mucilages form a film that reduces friction and the feeling of tightness.

The result is skin that reacts less to external stimuli and appears more even. This is an effect on comfort and appearance that develops with regular use.

Extract, oil macerate, or tincture: which form should you choose?

They are not the same, and the difference lies in what the solvent is able to carry with it.

Triterpenoids such as faradiol are oil-soluble: they therefore become more concentrated in the oil macerate and lipophilic extracts than in purely aqueous preparations. This is one reason calendula appears so often in oils and balms.

What is calendula used for in skincare?

Calendula is used on sensitive skin that reddens easily, in cleansing to reduce the degreasing effect, and in body products after sun exposure or hair removal.

In cleansing

In oil cleansing, its oil-soluble nature works in its favor: oil is the natural vehicle for triterpenoids.

In mousse cleansers, it works alongside surfactants, tempering their degreasing effect.

In face creams

In formulas for reactive skin, it complements other soothing ingredients, addressing a different mechanism than theirs.

In anti-aging formulas, it works alongside actives that target the skin's structure, taking care of comfort.

On the body

On the body, the area to be treated is extensive and the skin generally receives less attention: this is where a well-tolerated soothing ingredient performs at its best, because it can be used every day.

If reactivity is a recurring concern for you, the LeLang selection for sensitive skin features formulas built around this principle: documented soothing complexes, gentle surfactants, no harsh active ingredients, and products tested for nickel. Where a fragrance is present, allergens are listed in full on the label as required by EC Regulation 1223/2009: if you have a confirmed fragrance sensitivity, this is the list to read before choosing.

Calendula and allergies: who should be careful

This is the information that is missing almost everywhere, and it is paradoxical that it is missing precisely for an ingredient intended for delicate skin.

Calendula belongs to the Asteraceae family, the same botanical family as chamomile, arnica, ragweed, and wormwood. People with Compositae pollinosis or who have already reacted to other plants in this family may also develop a reaction through topical use.

That is not a reason to avoid it automatically: it affects only a minority of people. But if you know you are allergic to chamomile or ragweed, it is worth testing a calendula product on a small area—the crease of the elbow—for a couple of days before using it on your face.

This is also why, if your skin often reacts, it is worth having someone check the INCI before buying: at LeLang partner pharmacies, you can find a pharmacist who can check whether the products you already use contain Asteraceae.

Frequently asked questions about calendula

Is calendula suitable for facial skin?

Yes, and it is one of the most widely used ingredients in formulas for reactive skin. It is found in cleansers, creams, and oils, with no frequency restrictions: use it morning and evening.

Does calendula treat dermatitis or eczema?

No, and it is worth being precise because the opposite is often stated. Dermatitis and eczema are dermatological conditions that require a diagnosis and medical treatment. A calendula cosmetic improves the skin’s comfort and appearance and can complement that treatment, but it does not replace it.

What is the difference between calendula and chamomile?

They belong to the same botanical family, but they are different plants with different molecules: in calendula, the most relevant active compound is faradiol; in chamomile, it is bisabolol and apigenin. They act on different aspects of skin reactivity, which is why they can coexist in a formula.

Can calendula be used on children's skin?

It is among the ingredients most commonly used in products for young children's delicate skin. It is advisable to stick to products formulated for their age and, in case of a family history of allergy to Compositae, discuss it with the pediatrician first.

Is calendula cream or oil better?

It depends on the purpose. Oil is the best vehicle for triterpenoids, which are fat-soluble, and is suitable for the body and oil cleansing. Cream is more practical for the face and allows calendula to be combined with water-soluble active ingredients that would not work in oil.

Can calendula be used during pregnancy?

Topical cosmetic use presents no known concerns. As with any product used during pregnancy, if you have doubts, consult your doctor.

In the calendula ingredient profile you will find the INCI and the complete list of LeLang formulas containing it.

Sources for this article

01 Della Loggia R., Tubaro A., Sosa S., Becker H., Saar S., Isaac O., The role of triterpenoids in the topical anti-inflammatory activity of Calendula officinalis flowers, Planta Medica, 1994; 60(6): 516-520.
02 Quantification of eight triterpenoid monoesters in ten varieties of Calendula officinalis (PubMed, PMID 14979524).
03 Cosmetics, 2021; 8(2): 31 — study on calendula flower extract.

On the website: bisabolol · what sensitive skin is · what to apply to reddened skin · calendula profile · sensitive skin collection