Calendula for the skin: what it does and how to choose it

Calendula is one of the most frequently mentioned ingredients in natural cosmetics and one of the least explained. Everyone calls it soothing, but almost no one says which molecule makes this possible - and that is a shame, because that molecule is also the way to determine whether calendula is high quality or not.

Article written by Elisa Avalle, founder of LeLang Skin Care and a dermocosmetics specialist. Cover image generated with the support of artificial intelligence.

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What is calendula?

The calendula used in cosmetics is Calendula officinalis, a plant in the Asteraceae family with characteristic orange flower heads. The name comes from the Latin calendae, the first day of the month, because it flowers almost continuously.

In INCI, it appears as Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract when it is an extract of the flower heads, or as Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil in the case of an infused oil, meaning flowers macerated in a vegetable oil.

Beware of a common misconception: “Mexican calendula” or “African flower” is not calendula. It is Tagetes, a different genus whose derivatives have their own usage restrictions. If you read Tagetes on the label, you are not reading calendula.

Faradiol: the molecule that makes calendula soothing

This is the answer no one gives. It is not the flower itself that soothes, but a specific group of molecules.

A study published in Planta Medica by Della Loggia and colleagues fractionated the flower-head extract to identify the components responsible for its topical activity. The results indicated that triterpenoids were primarily responsible and, among them, that the faradiol monoester was the most relevant because of its quantitative predominance.

But the study’s most useful finding is something else. The authors observed that the activity of the different extracts is proportional to their faradiol monoester content, and proposed this content as a parameter for quality control of calendula preparations.

In other words: “contains calendula” says almost nothing. What matters is how much faradiol that extract contains, which depends on the cultivated variety, the time of harvesting, and the extraction method.

Variability is not theoretical: a study that quantified eight triterpenoid monoesters in ten different varieties of Calendula officinalis found marked differences in the active compound content from cultivar to cultivar. This is why, with a plant-based raw material, the supply chain matters as much as the botanical species.

What calendula does for the skin

Alongside triterpenoids, two other groups of molecules are at work.

The flavonoids — quercetin and isorhamnetin among the most prominent — provide antioxidant action against free radicals. The carotenoids, responsible for the orange color, complete the profile. And the mucilages form a film that reduces friction and the feeling of tightness.

The result is skin that reacts less to external stimuli and appears more even. It is an effect on comfort and appearance that develops with regular use.

Extract, oleate, or tincture: which form should you choose?

They are not the same thing, and the difference lies in what the solvent can carry with it.

Triterpenoids such as faradiol are fat-soluble: they therefore concentrate better in oleates and lipophilic extracts than in purely aqueous preparations. This is one reason calendula so often appears in oils and balms.

What is calendula used for in skincare?

Calendula is used on sensitive skin that reddens easily, in cleansing to temper the degreasing effect, and in body products after sun exposure or hair removal.

In cleansing

In oil cleansing, its fat-soluble nature works to its advantage: oil is the natural vehicle for triterpenoids.

In mousse cleansers, it works alongside surfactants, tempering their degreasing effect.

In face creams

In formulas for reactive skin, it supports other soothing ingredients, covering a mechanism different from theirs.

In anti-aging formulas, it complements actives that work on the skin's structure, taking care of comfort.

On the body

On the body, the area to be treated is large and the skin generally receives less attention: this is where a well-tolerated soothing ingredient performs at its best, because it can be used every day.

If reactivity is a recurring concern for you, in the LeLang selection for sensitive skin you will find formulas built around this principle: documented soothing complexes, gentle surfactants, no harsh actives and nickel-tested products. Where a fragrance is present, the allergens are listed in full on the label as required by EC Regulation 1223/2009: if you have a confirmed sensitivity to fragrances, this is the list to read before choosing.

Calendula and allergies: who should be careful

This is the information that is missing almost everywhere, and it is paradoxical that it is missing precisely for an ingredient intended for delicate skin.

Calendula belongs to the Asteraceae family, the same botanical family as chamomile, arnica, ragweed and mugwort. Anyone with Compositae pollinosis or who has already reacted to other plants in this family may also develop a reaction through topical use.

This is not a reason to avoid it outright: it affects only a minority of people. But it is why, if you know you are allergic to chamomile or ragweed, it is advisable to try a calendula product on a small area - the crook of your elbow - for a couple of days before using it on your face.

This is also why, if your skin often reacts, it is worth having someone check the INCI before you buy: at LeLang partner pharmacies, you can find a pharmacist who can check whether Asteraceae are present in products you already use.

Sources for this article

01 Della Loggia R., Tubaro A., Sosa S., Becker H., Saar S., Isaac O., The role of triterpenoids in the topical anti-inflammatory activity of Calendula officinalis flowers, Planta Medica, 1994; 60(6): 516-520.
02 Quantification of eight triterpenoid monoesters in ten varieties of Calendula officinalis (PubMed, PMID 14979524).
03 Cosmetics, 2021; 8(2): 31 - study on calendula flower extract.

On the website: bisabolol · what sensitive skin is · what to apply to reddened skin · calendula profile · sensitive skin collection