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Pomegranate is one of those fruits that has been extensively researched, and for once, the phytocomplex delivers much of what marketing promises. The interesting point is not so much that it is an antioxidant - dozens of extracts are - but which molecules it contains and what makes them different.
Article written by Elisa Avalle, founder of LeLang Skin Care and dermocosmetics specialist. Cover image generated with the support of artificial intelligence.
What pomegranate extract contains
Punica granatum concentrates a group of polyphenols called ellagitannins in its edible part and peel, the most abundant of which are punicalagins. They are large molecules that release ellagic acid through hydrolysis. Alongside them are anthocyanins, the red pigments that give the juice its color.
This combination is uncommon. Most plant extracts focus on a single class of molecules; pomegranate contains three with complementary behaviors, which explains why it has become one of the most studied plant antioxidants.
What pomegranate does for the skin
The documented action concerns lipid peroxidation: the lipids that make up the skin barrier are easily oxidized, and UV rays and atmospheric particulate matter trigger chain reactions that degrade them. Pomegranate polyphenols interrupt these reactions, helping preserve the integrity of the protective layer.
In terms of appearance, this contributes to a more even complexion and protection against exposure-induced aging. It is a preventive and supportive action: it does not replace sun protection; it complements it by addressing the free radicals that sunscreens do not intercept.
No topical antioxidant protects against UV rays. Sunscreens block them; antioxidants limit the damage caused by the reactions that occur anyway. These are two distinct functions, and both are needed.
Pomegranate and fermented extract: two raw materials
On an ingredient list, pomegranate may appear in two forms, and they are not equivalent.
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract is the classic extract: the phytocomplex remains intact, with its large molecules working mainly on the surface.
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract is the extract fermented with lactobacilli. Fermentation breaks down the ellagitannins into smaller, more absorbable fragments and adds the metabolites produced by the bacteria. It is a different raw material, with different bioavailability.
Where it is found in LeLang formulas
The classic extract is in the cleansing oil, where it accompanies the plant oils and protects their unsaturated fraction from oxidation, and in the single-dose sunscreen. The fermented form is instead in the detox mousse, together with the ferments that work on the microbiome.
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Frequently asked questions about pomegranate in cosmetics
Does drinking pomegranate juice have the same effect on the skin?
They are different routes with different outcomes. When taken orally, polyphenols are metabolized by the liver and distributed throughout the body; when applied topically, they act where they are applied. Neither replaces the other.
Is pomegranate seed oil the same thing?
No. The oil is extracted from the seeds and is rich in punicic acid, a rare fatty acid. It is a third raw material, with a more emollient than antioxidant profile.
Is it suitable for oily skin?
The extract is, as it is water-soluble and does not feel heavy. Because of its richness, the seed oil is more suitable for dry or mature skin.
Does pomegranate lighten dark spots?
It contributes to a more even complexion by limiting oxidation, but it is not a depigmenting active and should not be chosen for that purpose. For discoloration, you need actives that act on melanogenesis.
Are there any contraindications?
No significant contraindications are known for topical cosmetic use. The drug interactions sometimes mentioned concern oral intake of concentrated juice, not application to the skin.
