Argan oil is called “liquid gold” practically everywhere, and it’s a definition that says everything and nothing. The useful question is a different one: what does it contain that other vegetable oils don’t, and when is it really worth choosing?
Article written by Elisa Avalle, founder of LeLang Skin Care and dermocosmetics specialist. Cover image generated with the support of artificial intelligence.
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What is argan oil?
It is obtained from the seeds of Argania spinosa, a tree that grows wild only in a region of southwestern Morocco. In INCI, it appears as Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil.
Its rarity is not a marketing argument: the tree lives for up to two hundred years, withstands drought where almost nothing else grows, and producing one litre of oil requires dozens of kilos of fruit. The argan forest has been a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1998.
Cosmetic argan oil or culinary argan oil: how to tell the difference
This is the most practical distinction of all, and in a shop you can recognise it at a glance.
Culinary oil is made from seeds that are roasted before pressing: it has a dark amber colour, an intense hazelnut aroma and a strong flavour. Roasting, however, degrades some of the compounds that benefit the skin.
Cosmetic oil is made from unroasted seeds that are cold-pressed: it has a pale yellow colour and a very subtle scent.
If the argan oil you have at home has an intense hazelnut aroma and is dark, it is cooking oil. It will not harm your skin, but you are not using what you think you are using.
What argan oil contains
Its composition is approximately 99% fatty acids, and the ratio between the two main ones is the reason for its versatility: oleic acid and linoleic acid are present in similar proportions, without the strong oleic-acid imbalance found in many other vegetable oils.
It is a detail that matters more than it may seem. Linoleic acid is the building block the skin uses to produce the ceramides of the skin barrier, and it is the component that tends to be lacking in blemish-prone skin. An oil with a balanced profile is therefore tolerated by a wider range of skin types than a strongly oleic oil such as sweet almond oil.
The two signatures of argan oil
There are also two elements that make this oil recognisable in the laboratory.
The first is its tocopherol profile: in argan oil, gamma-tocopherol predominates, while alpha-tocopherol is more prevalent in most vegetable oils. It is a form of vitamin E that is particularly effective at neutralising certain reactive nitrogen species, which alpha-tocopherol is less effective at intercepting.
The second is its phytosterols: argan oil contains schottenol and spinasterol, two rare plant sterols that are found together in practically no other oil. They contribute to the unsaponifiable fraction, the part that distinguishes a nourishing oil from one that also does something more.
How it works on the skin
Fatty acids supplement the barrier lipids and reduce transepidermal water loss; tocopherols and polyphenols protect those same lipids from oxidation caused by free radicals.
It nourishes and protects with the same raw material, a combination that is less common than you might think: most vegetable oils do the first thing well and the second to a limited extent.
The visible results are improved softness, elasticity and evenness of texture. Comfort is noticeable immediately, while the change in texture develops over a couple of weeks.
Who is it suitable for?
It is the right choice if you have dry skin or skin that is losing elasticity, if you are looking for a night treatment that works while you sleep, or if you have combination skin and have avoided oils so far for fear of weighing it down.
The last case is the most interesting: it is precisely the balance between oleic and linoleic acid that makes argan oil one of the few vegetable oils combination skin tolerates well, without a greasy feel and without clogging.
Argan oil in LeLang formulas
You will find it in our night treatment, and this is a deliberate choice: at night, the skin does not have to compete with smog, sunscreen filters and makeup, and skin repair processes are more active. It is the moment when a rich oil is used to its full potential rather than halfway.
In the formula, argan oil works alongside four other selected oils, each with a different fatty-acid profile: a system, not an ingredient put on display.
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If you are not sure whether an oil-based treatment is right for your skin, we can look at it together in a fifteen-minute consultation. In most cases, the right question is not “oil or no oil”, but which oil and at what time of day.
How to use it
Apply it to still damp skin, as with all oils: on its own, it does not hydrate but seals in the water already present. A few drops are enough, and if you feel you need to use more, you are probably applying it to skin that is too dry.
Night-time is the best time for the face; on the body, apply it immediately after showering. Store it away from light and heat, because the unsaturated fatty acids that make it valuable are also the ones that oxidise most easily.
Frequently asked questions about argan oil
Is argan oil comedogenic?
It has one of the most balanced profiles among vegetable oils, which also makes it suitable for combination skin. The comedogenicity scales circulating online come from outdated tests on animal models and take into account neither the concentration in a formula nor individual differences: we discuss this in the article on sweet almond oil.
Is pure argan oil better than argan oil in a cream?
Pure argan oil nourishes but does not hydrate, because it contains no water and does not attract it. In a formula, it works alongside humectants and water-soluble actives that it could not deliver on its own. If you use it pure, always apply it to damp skin or over a serum.
How long does a bottle of argan oil last?
Once opened, generally six to twelve months if stored in the dark and away from heat. Rancid oil can be recognised by its smell, which becomes sharp: at that point, it has not only lost its effectiveness, but its oxidation products are also undesirable on the skin.
Is it suitable for the eye area?
Yes, and this is one of the areas where it performs best, because the skin is thin and has few sebaceous glands. One drop gently patted in with the ring finger is more than enough.
Does argan oil help with stretch marks?
It keeps the skin soft and supple, and on skin subject to stretching this improves comfort. Stretch marks, however, form in the dermis: no oil applied to the surface can prevent them from forming.
Can it be used during pregnancy?
Yes, it is one of the vegetable oils with the broadest tolerability profiles and has no known issues for topical use.
In our ingredient glossary, you will find the argan oil entry, including its INCI and the LeLang products that contain it.
