Pores don’t open and close. They are the visible openings of pilosebaceous follicles and have no sphincter: steam doesn’t make them open wide, and ice-cold water doesn’t seal them shut.
What changes is their appearance. Sebum, surface cells, hydration, temporary swelling, and the way light hits the skin’s surface can make them look more or less noticeable. The distinction may seem pedantic, but it completely changes what makes sense to do.
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Elisa Avalle · Founder and dermocosmetics specialist
I don’t want to convince anyone that pores should be appealing. But I would like to remove the idea that they are dirty doors to open, empty, and close again: almost every misguided habit stems from that image.
Langhe, September 18, 2026
What we call pores
In everyday language, we call the visible openings of pilosebaceous follicles pores, particularly noticeable on the nose, cheeks, and forehead. They are normal skin structures connected to the follicle and sebaceous gland. They are not imperfections to eliminate, and they do not indicate that the skin is dirty.
Their visibility varies greatly from person to person and even from one area of the same face to another. The literature identifies greater sebum production, follicle volume, and reduced elasticity around the opening among the main factors. Genetics, age, hormones, acne, and photoaging also play a role.
Why they don’t work like little doors
If I think I need to close a hole, I’ll look for drastic, immediate solutions. If I understand that I’m looking at a normal structure whose visibility depends on several factors, I can choose a realistic strategy.
That is the difference between asking, “How do I close them?” and asking, “Why are they more visible on my skin right now?” The second question has an answer; the first does not.
Steam and cold water: what they really do
Heat and humidity can soften sebum and surface buildup, and cleansing afterward can make the skin feel cleaner. But very hot water, prolonged exposure to steam, and rubbing increase dryness and irritation. For daily cleansing, the most boring rule applies: lukewarm water and your hands, without overdoing it.
Cold water can create a toned sensation and temporarily alter redness or swelling, but it does not reshape the anatomy of the follicle. As temperature and microcirculation return to normal, the visual effect changes too.
“A pore doesn’t empty like a bottle. Only how full it is—and how much shadow it casts—changes.”
Can their appearance be improved?
Yes, but the right word is improved, not erased.
Proper cleansing prevents excessive buildup without stripping the skin. Actives that work on sebum, keratinization, or surface quality can make skin texture look more even: salicylic acid enters the pore because it is oil-soluble, while niacinamide works on sebum production. Sunscreen also helps limit UV-related deterioration of elasticity, the most underestimated factor of all.
However, not everyone has the same predominant cause. On oily skin, the goal may be to manage sebum and congestion; on mature skin, the loss of support around the follicle matters more. Applying the same poreless promise to both oversimplifies things. If the issue is surface buildup, an enzymatic peel may make sense; if it is elasticity, it won’t.
The problem with poreless images
Social media and beauty photography have accustomed us to faces without texture. Filters, image compression, front lighting, and retouching remove precisely the details that belong to real skin.
Comparison therefore becomes impossible: we ask a cosmetic product to reproduce an effect that was often created by software.
Even with instrumental testing, we need to look at how the change is measured. The number of visible pores, their area, apparent depth, and photographic assessment are not the same thing. Saying “reduces pores” without disclosing the method leaves a great deal open to interpretation for the reader.
My perspective
If a feature bothers us, it is perfectly legitimate to try to improve it: I’m not here to say that pores must be liked.
But I would like to shift the question. Not “How do I close them?” but “Why are they more visible now?” From there, we can work on sebum, the skin’s surface, elasticity, and photoprotection, with much more realistic expectations and without being harsh on skin that does not need it.
Elisa Avalle is the founder of LeLang Skin Care and specializes in dermocosmetics at the University of Barcelona. Formulated in the Langhe for Italian pharmacies.
Sources for this article
01 Lee et al., “Facial Pores: Definition, Causes, and Treatment Options”
02 Kim et al., sebum, acne, skin elasticity, and gender differences
03 Flament et al., a multi-ethnic study on facial pores
04 American Academy of Dermatology, recommendations for facial cleansing
On the site: enzymatic peel · salicylic acid · understanding acne
