The 54th annual report on the cosmetics industry by the Cosmetica Italia Research Centre is a key tool for interpreting the sector’s statistical assessments and identifying development trends in the world of cosmetics.
I always find this type of analysis fascinating, because it allows me to formulate hypotheses about the future and compare them with data from my own business. The small and the large, my microsystem and the national macrosystem, represent an inexhaustible source of knowledge and ideas for me.
A market growing by almost 10 percentage points
What stands out compared with previous years? The cosmetics market is growing by almost 10 percentage points, reaching €11.8 billion: a figure that cannot be ignored.
As a professional in the cosmetics industry, I believe these annual reports are indispensable, but I also believe that our work often lies in developing an idea and gaining a more specific perspective: by engaging with market needs every day, it is possible to grasp the nuances and develop targeted strategies.
Personalization takes centre stage
Targeted and personalized strategies are becoming increasingly important for the cosmetics industry. Are we perhaps learning to recognize that each of us is different and has specific needs? We cannot say for certain, but the data suggest that something is changing. This is a direction that has pleased me greatly because, in my own small way, it is exactly what I aim for: the philosophy that guides my work.
I believe that, after the crisis linked to the 2020 pandemic, the Italian market saw a significant upturn, and I hope I contributed to this growth in some small way. LeLang played its part by:
- working to raise awareness of self-care and skincare;
- responding to people’s interests by producing cosmetics with proven effectiveness;
- recognizing the importance of personalized cosmetics and advice from industry professionals;
- building a connection with pharmacists and promoting a people-centred working method, rather than relying solely on e-commerce.
Not just e-commerce: the return of the physical store
As I mentioned, I chose to take an alternative approach, seeking to respond to different needs: online sales represent a fundamental distribution channel, with approximately €700 million in revenue in 2021, yet they are not enough on their own to restore the Italian cosmetics market.
Direct sales therefore become a way to regain momentum and, thanks to innovations in formulations and the service model of manufacturers, add a new trend to consumption patterns: a trend that is difficult to reverse.
This trend must be identified within the distribution channels and among the new segment of the population involved. So it is not just about e-commerce: perfumeries, herbalist shops, pharmacies and beauty salons are becoming competitive environments. Consumers want to visit stores, speak with experts, receive advice and test products on their own skin, obtaining personalized guidance. On this subject, I devoted a specific analysis to purchasing trends in pharmacies and the reasons why buying cosmetics at a pharmacy remains a good choice.
Younger consumers, on the other hand, are drawn to products that reflect their values, such as a focus on sustainability and the possibility of personalization. As early as 2021, traditional distribution channels recorded an 8-percentage-point increase. Online sales remain the main distribution method, able to reach everyone with ease, but a rapid change in purchasing habits is clearly under way.
This article analyzes data from the 54th annual report, referring to the 2021–2022 financial year. The figures should be read as a snapshot of that period: subsequent editions of the report have updated the absolute values several times, while the underlying trends — personalization, the return to physical stores and the importance of the pharmacy channel — have been confirmed.
Source: 54th annual report on the cosmetics industry by the Cosmetica Italia Research Centre.
