[INDICE:h2]
Cosmetics is a science with deep roots in nature that, through research and innovation, finds new ways to promote well-being through the skin. Adaptogens are substances of plant origin, such as ginseng, maca, or ginger, that help the body respond to physical, emotional, or environmental stressors.
Many of us have already used adaptogenic ingredients without knowing it. Used for centuries in Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic tradition, they are now enjoying a surge in popularity, and cosmetic science has also begun to study their benefits for the skin.
What are adaptogens?
Adaptogens are plants that help the body modulate its response to stress. They are called adaptogens because they are thought to help the body adapt to what it needs, with a regulatory function.
The term was coined in 1947 by Soviet pharmacologist N.V. Lazarev to describe substances capable not only of regulating the stress response, but also of being tolerated during prolonged use. Since the 1940s, thousands of studies on adaptogens have been conducted, especially in the Soviet Union, Korea, and China.
Research has shown, for example, that rhodiola (also known as arctic root) may reduce feelings of fatigue in humans, while eleuthero (Siberian ginseng) has long been studied for its tonic effects.
Adaptogens are generally plants or fungi that grow in harsh environments (deserts, high altitudes, challenging terrain) and have developed remarkable adaptability. They are among the most resilient organisms in nature.
Why stress shows on your skin
Stress and anxiety can worsen inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, and eczema. High levels of cortisol affect the immune system and promote inflammation, which can flare up existing conditions.
Adaptogens are believed to interact with the stress response system, which includes the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, involved in the release of cortisol. By helping to balance cortisol levels, they may help limit excessive spikes and chronic increases.
This is the field of neurocosmetics, which studies the communication between the nervous system and the skin. Environmental factors also play a role: UV rays, pollution, blue light, and smoke.
One important clarification: a cosmetic product with adaptogenic active ingredients can improve the appearance and comfort of the skin and help it respond better to environmental stressors. It does not treat acne, eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea, which require care from a dermatologist.
The benefits of adaptogenic ingredients
Adaptogens used in cosmetics work over two timeframes: in the short term, they help the skin return to its balanced state after exposure to stress; in the long term, they help protect it from cumulative effects, including signs of skin aging.
The two main mechanisms are antioxidant and soothing action.
Antioxidant action
- Protection against free radicals: UV rays, pollution, and stress promote their production in the skin. Antioxidants neutralize them, limiting oxidative stress that damages skin cells and accelerates premature aging.
- Collagen support: antioxidants such as vitamin C play a role in collagen synthesis. Collagen is the protein that gives skin structure and elasticity.
- More even skin tone: some active ingredients, such as niacinamide, help reduce the appearance of dark spots by affecting melanin transfer, while vitamin E contributes its antioxidant action.
Soothing action
- Reduction of irritation: soothing active ingredients help reduce redness, itching, and a feeling of warmth.
- Support for blemish-prone skin: persistent inflammation can contribute to blemishes; soothing active ingredients help keep the skin more balanced.
- After sun exposure: extracts such as chamomile and calendula help soothe the feeling of overheated skin.
- Maintaining barrier function: inflammation can compromise the skin barrier, causing dryness and sensitivity. Soothing active ingredients help preserve it.
Adaptogens used in cosmetics include turmeric, for example, which is rich in curcumin, helping to reduce redness and improve the radiance of the complexion. The list is long (from ashwagandha to rhodiola, from goji berries to medicinal mushrooms), but in formulations they are often joined by molecules that are not adaptogens, such as ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides.
Ingredients for adaptogenic skincare
The first goal of adaptogenic skincare is to strengthen the skin barrier. Products need to address the demands of modern life (climate change, ongoing stress), and they do so by drawing on highly resilient plants.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
A powerful, rejuvenating antioxidant that helps protect cellular energy and counteract the effects of UV exposure. It boosts the production of ceramides, the lipids that keep the skin barrier healthy and resilient, and brightens the complexion by reducing the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes. For the full overview, see the article dedicated to niacinamide.
Kudzu and Pueraria Lobata
Kudzu is the common name for Pueraria Lobata, a plant whose extract supports the structural components of the skin. It stimulates cell renewal, improving the appearance of fine lines, and is particularly suitable after menopause due to its high isoflavone content. It also has a soothing effect that relieves red, sensitive skin.
Tephrosia Purpurea
Among the adaptogens selected by LeLang is Tephrosia Purpurea seed extract, an Indian plant that grows in remote areas and has been used in Ayurvedic tradition. L'extract is used as a neurocosmetic ingredient: according to the supplier’s studies, it reduces cortisol production in the skin by promoting the release of beta-endorphins, creating a perceived sense of well-being.
How to choose products
When choosing an adaptogen-based product, consider the whole picture: the ingredients, the formula, and above all, your skin’s needs. Choose well-documented ingredients, check the INCI list and the position of active ingredients, and consider whether it contains fragrance or alcohol if you have reactive skin.
Adaptogens address different needs: some are soothing, such as chamomile and calendula, making them suitable for easily irritated skin, while others have strong antioxidant properties and are better suited to pro-age care. The type of product they’re in also matters: a cleanser stays on the skin for just a few seconds, while a serum works for hours.
Skincare is a personal journey that is never the same for everyone. This is the principle behind LeLang’s selection of highly functional, naturally derived ingredients to create formulas designed for every skin type. If you have a specific concern, an expert’s advice is the quickest way to avoid trial and error.
