Face oil for oily skin: how to choose the right one?

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Oily skin requires certain precautions and products capable of respecting it, like every other skin type. Whether combination, dry, or oily, every complexion requires targeted skincare and ingredients designed for its characteristics.

A widespread belief is that oily skin does not need hydration, or that it cannot be treated with oils. This idea should be reconsidered: there are non-comedogenic oils that can improve the condition of oily or acne-prone skin without clogging pores or intensifying shine.

What does “non-comedogenic” mean?

Non-comedogenic oils have a low probability of clogging pores. These are oils whose fatty acid composition allows for rapid absorption without leaving a heavy film on the surface.

There is a reference scale, the comedogenicity rating, ranging from 0 to 5: 0 means that the oil does not clog pores, while 5 means that it almost certainly does. It is an indicative scale, based on outdated studies conducted on animal models, so it should be viewed as a guide rather than an absolute value—but it remains the most practical tool for guidance.

Table of the most commonly used oils

The rule that summarizes the table: oils rich in linoleic acid tend to be lightweight and suitable for blemish-prone skin, while those very rich in oleic acid are heavier. There is a reason: the sebum of people with acne-prone skin is often particularly low in linoleic acid, and replenishing it helps normalize the composition of the hydrolipidic film.

The most suitable oils

• Jojoba oil: technically a liquid wax, it has a structure very similar to skin sebum, making it useful for rebalancing oil production without weighing the skin down.
• Grapeseed oil: lightweight, rich in antioxidants and polyphenols, with approximately 70% linoleic acid. Despite being an oil, it is particularly suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.
• Rosehip oil: known for its lightness and soothing, renewing properties, which help improve the appearance of marked skin.
• Carrot oil: purifying and antioxidant, rich in beta-carotene and vitamins C and E.
• Hazelnut oil: rich in oleic acid and vitamin E. It is an exception to the general rule because it has a particular affinity with skin sebum, absorbs quickly, and has reduced greasiness.

A cosmetic product can help improve the appearance and balance of blemished skin. However, if the acne is inflammatory, with nodules or cysts, or if the redness is persistent and could be rosacea, consult a dermatologist.

Why oil helps oily skin

The skin often becomes unbalanced when its natural lipids are removed, for example due to over-cleansing with products that are too harsh. In that case, it lacks moisture and produces more sebum to compensate: the classic vicious cycle of those who wash their face more often precisely because it looks shiny.

Cosmetic oils differ from the sebum produced by the body: they absorb quickly, help retain moisture, and provide nutrients. In short:

• They remove even the most resistant makeup;
• They remove impurities from pores through affinity;
• They respect the skin microbiota;
• They help restore the hydrolipidic balance.

How to incorporate them into your routine

You can start by using an oil during cleansing. Cleansing Gentle Oil is an oil-gel makeup remover that removes even waterproof makeup and impurities through affinity, while respecting the hydrolipidic barrier.

It contains hazelnut oil, carrot oil, almond oil, and grapeseed oil, with organic calendula extract and pomegranate extract. It is effective on its own or as the first step of a double cleansing.

Before adding a pure oil, you can help your skin get used to oils with a cream containing non-comedogenic oils.

If you want to switch to using oils directly, remember that they are highly concentrated: start with a few drops and try them first at night. The night serum with a blend of five oils nourishes the epidermis during overnight renewal, without the risk of a shiny appearance during the day.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best oil for oily skin?

There isn't just one, but the most suitable are those with a low comedogenic rating and rich in linoleic acid: grapeseed, jojoba, rosehip, and hazelnut. Avoid coconut, olive, and wheat germ oils, which tend to clog pores.

How can you get rid of an oily appearance on your face?

Paradoxically, not by degreasing more. Cleansing too often or with harsh products causes the skin to compensate by producing more sebum. A balanced routine is better: gentle cleansing twice a day, a sebum-regulating serum with niacinamide and zinc, and a lightweight cream. The shiny appearance decreases over the course of a few weeks.

Can oil cause pimples?

It can happen if you choose an oil with a high comedogenic rating, use too much, or apply it to already congested skin without unclogging the pores first. With a lightweight oil, a few drops, and gradual introduction, the risk is low.

Is oil or cream better for oily skin?

They do different things. The cream also contains water and humectants, so it hydrates; the oil works only on the lipid component and helps seal in moisture. For oily, dehydrated skin, the best combination is a lightweight cream and, if needed, a few drops of oil on top at night.

Don't know where to start?

Understanding whether your skin is truly oily or dehydrated and compensating is the step that changes your entire routine.