AUCTION MAGAZINE
THE FOUNDER’S VOICE
di Elisa Avalle, founder di LeLang e specialista in dermocosmetica
NAD+ is a biologically relevant molecule, but it is large and unstable. Evidence for topical application is largely based on in vitro or animal studies, and we already know which precursor works.
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More and more people are coming in for consultations with a routine provided by a chatbot. The information is often correct, but a routine isn’t built from information: it’s built by looking at a person’s skin.
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Retinol is among the most studied active ingredients for photoaging, but it isn’t an essential step, and there’s no specific age at which you have to start. Since 2024, new concentration limits have also been in place in Europe.
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Dermatologically tested and clinically tested describe the framework in which the test was conducted, not the result. The five questions that turn a claim into useful information.
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Collagen is not deposited or harvested: the term “banking” is a metaphor, not a mechanism. And the famous 1% annual decline is a simplification of the original source.
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“Heat opens pores and cold closes them” is an intuitive but biologically incorrect statement: pores don’t have a sphincter. What changes is their appearance, which depends on sebum, surface texture, and elasticity.
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Face tape, mouth tape, chin straps, and masks: the morning shed promises to wake us up looking more beautiful. Some practices serve a purpose, others have a temporary effect, and others have no evidence behind them.
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Two products can have an almost identical INCI yet be completely different formulations. What does a label really tell you, where does it fall short, and why don’t the same ingredients mean the same results on your skin?
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