AUCTION MAGAZINE

THE FOUNDER’S VOICE

di Elisa Avalle, founder di LeLang e specialista in dermocosmetica

NAD+ in creams: the right molecule in the wrong place
NAD+ is a biologically relevant molecule, but it is large and unstable. Evidence for topical application is largely based on in vitro or animal studies, and we already know which precursor works.
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AI-recommended skincare: what it can’t know about your skin
More and more people are coming in for consultations with a routine provided by a chatbot. The information is often correct, but a routine isn’t built from information: it’s built by looking at a person’s skin.
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Retinol: is it really essential?
Retinol is among the most studied active ingredients for photoaging, but it isn’t an essential step, and there’s no specific age at which you have to start. Since 2024, new concentration limits have also been in place in Europe.
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Clinically and dermatologically tested: what do they really mean?
Dermatologically tested and clinically tested describe the framework in which the test was conducted, not the result. The five questions that turn a claim into useful information.
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Collagen banking: can you really store collagen for later?
Collagen is not deposited or harvested: the term “banking” is a metaphor, not a mechanism. And the famous 1% annual decline is a simplification of the original source.
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Do pores really open and close?
“Heat opens pores and cold closes them” is an intuitive but biologically incorrect statement: pores don’t have a sphincter. What changes is their appearance, which depends on sebum, surface texture, and elasticity.
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Morning shed: does it really make sense to turn sleep into a treatment?
Face tape, mouth tape, chin straps, and masks: the morning shed promises to wake us up looking more beautiful. Some practices serve a purpose, others have a temporary effect, and others have no evidence behind them.
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How to read an INCI list: what it really tells you and what it doesn’t
Two products can have an almost identical INCI yet be completely different formulations. What does a label really tell you, where does it fall short, and why don’t the same ingredients mean the same results on your skin?
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