Lycopene for the skin: properties, studies, and how to use it

Lycopene is the pigment that gives tomatoes, watermelons, and pink grapefruits their red color. It belongs to the carotenoid family and is one of the most extensively studied antioxidants of all — especially in relation to protecting the skin from sunlight.

There is, however, an important distinction worth making right away, one that is rarely clarified: most scientific evidence concerns lycopene taken through the diet, not applied to the skin. Let’s look at what the research actually says and how this translates into cosmetics.

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What is lycopene?

Carotenoids are a broad group of plant pigments with strong antioxidant properties, which we commonly consume through fruit and vegetables. Lycopene is a hydrocarbon carotenoid particularly abundant in tomatoes, especially when cooked: heat processing increases its bioavailability.

Unlike beta-carotene, lycopene is not converted into vitamin A. Its role is different: it acts as a free-radical scavenger and is considered one of the most effective carotenoids at neutralizing singlet oxygen, one of the reactive species generated by sun exposure.

What studies say about lycopene and the skin

The research here is extensive, but it needs to be read carefully.

A double-blind randomized study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, conducted on 65 volunteers, showed that a lycopene-rich tomato nutrient complex completely inhibits the activation of three genes induced by UVA1 rays: HO1, ICAM1, and MMP1 — markers of oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation, respectively.

Another randomized clinical study observed that lycopene-rich tomato paste protects against skin photodamage by promoting the deposition of procollagen I and inhibiting the expression of metalloproteinases that degrade collagen.

It must be said honestly: these studies concern oral intake. There is also research with negative findings — a 2015 study found no significant systemic photoprotective effect — so the evidence is not unanimous. Evidence on the topical use of lycopene is more limited and comes mainly from in vitro tests and active-ingredient manufacturers.

This does not mean that topical lycopene is useless; it means it should be understood for what it is: a supportive antioxidant, not a substitute for sun protection.

The technical challenge of lycopene in cosmetics

There is a specific reason why lycopene remained little used in cosmetics for a long time: it is fat-soluble, unstable, and intensely colored.

In practical terms, it is difficult to disperse in water-based formulas, tends to degrade, and may leave an unwanted reddish color on the skin or in the product.

To overcome these limitations, dedicated active ingredients were developed: the active ingredient we use is the first fully water-soluble lycopene developed for the cosmetics industry, and it is made in Italy.

The technology behind water-soluble lycopene

The active combines bioliquefaction with the microdispersion of fat-soluble molecules in the aqueous phase.

This is not a solvent extraction, but an enzymatic process: a series of enzymes hydrolyzes the plant structure, releasing low-molecular-weight phytocomplexes that penetrate the skin layers more easily. The result is an active ingredient that contains no glycerin, alcohols, glycols, or other solvents.

There is also a sustainability aspect: the starting raw material consists of by-products of the food industry that would otherwise be discarded, and the process generates no waste.

The benefits of lycopene for the skin

Protection against oxidative stress

This is its main action. Lycopene counteracts the free radicals generated by UV rays, blue light, and pollution—the same ones that break down collagen and accelerate photoaging.

Support against urban pollution

Formulas containing water-soluble lycopene have been tested for their ability to reduce the adhesion of airborne particles and limit their oxidative effects. This is a relevant topic for people living in cities, and we explore it in our article on anti-pollution skincare.

Even complexion

By counteracting oxidative stress, lycopene indirectly helps limit skin discoloration and maintain a more even complexion. However, if discoloration is already present, specific active ingredients are needed.

Soothing action

Studies indicate that it modulates inflammatory processes, making it useful for skin prone to redness. For this reason, lycopene is also considered suitable for sensitive skin, as well as oily and combination skin thanks to its lightweight texture.

Lycoglow: the brightening lycopene serum

We chose this water-soluble lycopene for Lycoglow, the brightening and protective facial serum. It is applied to clean skin and absorbs quickly: just a few drops a day are enough.

In the formula, lycopene works alongside Mullein, a botanical extract with a luminous effect, and moisturizing ingredients that help counteract flaking.

The complete list of LeLang formulas containing lycopene can be found in the lycopene ingredient page.

An important clarification: lycopene is not a sunscreen and does not replace sunscreen. It works alongside it by neutralizing free radicals that UV filters cannot block.

How to incorporate lycopene into your routine

Topical lycopene is used in the morning, before moisturizer and sunscreen, where it provides antioxidant support throughout the day. It pairs well with other antioxidants such as vitamin C and ferulic acid.

When it comes to diet, it is worth remembering that lycopene is better absorbed from cooked tomatoes with fat: a simple sauce with olive oil makes much more of it available than a raw tomato.

Frequently asked questions about lycopene

Does lycopene protect against the sun?

It helps reduce UV-induced oxidative stress, but it is not a sunscreen and must not be used as a substitute for SPF. Studies showing a reduction in erythema concern prolonged dietary intake, not topical application.

Does lycopene stain the skin?

Pure lycopene is highly pigmented, but modern cosmetic actives are formulated to avoid unwanted color.

Is it suitable for oily skin?

Yes. In water-soluble formulations, it has a lightweight, non-occlusive texture, so it is also suitable for oily and combination skin.

Is it better to take it or apply it?

They are two complementary approaches. The strongest evidence concerns dietary intake, while topical application acts locally as antioxidant support. A diet rich in cooked tomatoes and a routine with topical antioxidants work in different ways.

Can it be used every day?

Yes, and that is in fact how it works: antioxidants work cumulatively, and their benefits depend on consistency, not on the concentration of a single application.

Sources for this article

• Randomized double-blind study of 65 volunteers on the effect of a tomato nutrient complex on the expression of UVA1-induced HO1, ICAM1, and MMP1 genes, British Journal of Dermatology.
• Randomized clinical study on lycopene-rich tomato paste and protection against skin photodamage, with evaluation of procollagen I and metalloproteinases, British Journal of Dermatology.
• Manufacturer's technical data sheet for the water-soluble lycopene active used in LeLang formulas.

On the website: lycopene ingredient sheet · mullein · free radicals and antioxidants · anti-pollution skincare