How has the world of cosmetics changed over the years? Today, people talk about cosmeceuticals, but what are they really?
Let me introduce myself: I’m Elisa Avalle, founder of LeLang, and I want to talk to you about a topic surrounded by a great deal of confusion. I’d like to explore it in depth because I believe there are several points that need clarifying to avoid misunderstandings—some of which are fueled precisely by those who sell these products.
Cosmeceuticals: a definition
The term is a combination of the words “cosmetic” and “pharmaceutical” and refers to creams, lotions, cleansers, or products for topical application to the skin that are not intended solely for aesthetic purposes but aspire to have a drug-like effect.
We are not talking about drugs, but about products that aspire to be something more than simple cosmetics. And precisely because they remain cosmetics, by law they must be applied only to healthy skin: if a product had the power to influence the structure or function of the body, it would have to be considered a drug.
This is the fundamental concept to keep in mind when purchasing a skincare product: “cosmeceutical” is not a legal category. It is a marketing term, not a regulatory classification. From a legal standpoint, a cosmeceutical product is a cosmetic like any other.
That said, the term does refer to something real: a product is defined as cosmeceutical when it contains a high concentration of active ingredients, some of which are also found in medicinal products. Although they cannot be classified as drugs, these products focus on innovative characteristics compared with formulations already on the market.
Where the term comes from
The term was coined in 1984 by Dr. Albert Kligman of the University of Pennsylvania, the same researcher who introduced tretinoin into modern dermatology. Kligman described a category of hybrid products, halfway between cosmetic and pharmaceutical benefits: in his definition, a cosmeceutical is a topical preparation sold as a cosmetic but with performance suggesting a pharmaceutical effect.
The term later gained wider use thanks to technological innovations in skincare, such as formulations rich in topical vitamin C and its antioxidant effect. This gave rise to a generation of products whose purpose is not merely to improve appearance immediately: a cosmeceutical is a product that can positively influence the skin beyond the time of application, thanks to its active ingredients.
What makes an ingredient “cosmeceutical”
What matters is demonstrated functionality through clinical studies: the ingredients are standardized, meaning they contain a certified amount of active substance, whether naturally derived or synthetic, extracted using controlled methods.
The value of these products stems from the market’s demand for formulations whose effectiveness for their stated purpose has been demonstrated. For everything you need to know about reading a label and distinguishing a functional active ingredient from one used merely for appearance, see the cosmetic ingredient guide.
A useful question to ask when looking at a product that calls itself cosmeceutical is: are the cited studies independent, or were they conducted by the active ingredient’s manufacturer? Both have value, but not the same value. A serious company makes this distinction clear instead of leaving it vague.
Questions surrounding cosmeceuticals
Although the term has entered dermatological literature and is widely discussed around the world, almost four decades after its origin this category is still not formally recognized by the European Union.
The reason lies in the clear distinction the law makes between cosmetics and drugs. A drug is defined as a product intended to diagnose, mitigate, treat, or prevent disease, or intended to influence the structure or functions of the body.
By contrast, according to Article 2 of EC Regulation 1223/2009, a cosmetic is a product or substance, other than a medicinal product, intended to be applied to the external surfaces of the human body for the exclusive or primary purpose of cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, correcting body odors, protecting them, or keeping them in good condition. Cosmetic products do not have therapeutic purposes and cannot claim therapeutic activity.
This distinction has practical consequences: no cosmetic, however advanced, can claim to treat acne, rosacea, psoriasis, or dermatitis. It can improve the appearance and comfort of the skin and complement a dermatological treatment plan, but when it comes to a medical condition, your doctor remains the point of reference. I also wrote about this in the article on buying cosmetics at a pharmacy.
Cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and functional cosmetics
In recent years, cosmetics have made huge strides and completely renewed their approach. Advanced cosmetics, rich in biotechnological active ingredients, are a natural evolution of the industry and address the needs of the skin with increasing precision.
In functional cosmetics, the focus shifts to the product’s functionality: modern formulations contain higher percentages of bioactive ingredients and shorter INCI lists, because the number of ingredients in the formula is reduced while the concentrations of those that truly affect the specific concern—whether wrinkles or dark spots—are increased. Fewer ingredients, chosen more carefully.
Active ingredients that follow this approach include peptides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid: molecules with a documented mechanism of action, not ingredients chosen merely for their name on the label.
LeLang’s approach
When it comes to skincare, I care about ensuring that information reaches people clearly, so that everyone can make their own informed decisions. That is why I wanted to distinguish between cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and functional cosmetics instead of using the three terms as synonyms.
At LeLang, we use active ingredients whose effectiveness is documented by clinical studies on humans, and we never use animal testing, which has been banned for cosmetics in Europe under Regulation 1223/2009: preliminary testing on ingredients is based on in vitro models. This is the combination of functionality and ethics that matters to us.
Only through research and transparent information is it possible to achieve results that go beyond simply correcting aesthetic concerns. That is why LeLang creates formulas with natural ingredients and innovative synergies, designed to become part of people’s daily routines.
Elisa Avalle, founder of LeLang Skin Care
