Face highlighter: a guide on what it is, how, and where to apply it

As the seasons change, the skin undergoes various changes. In some cases, it becomes dry and tight because it exhausts its resources to protect itself; in others, a dull complexion and thicker, less luminous skin become noticeable.

Achieving the glass skin effect is not a matter of makeup: if the complexion struggles to find its natural radiance, targeted skincare solutions are needed.

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What is a facial highlighter in skincare?

When we talk about a highlighter in a skincare routine, we do not mean glittery powders or pearlescent drops to blend over the cheekbones, but genuine treatments — serums and creams formulated to improve the quality of the epidermis.

There are cosmetics that work synergistically to support cell renewal, even out skin texture, and reduce the appearance of skin discoloration.

The true glow does not depend on an artificial optical effect, but on skin that is healthier: when the surface is more even, less dry, and less stressed, it reflects light more evenly. This is the same physical principle behind the gray appearance of dehydrated skin: light is scattered rather than reflected.

Why skin loses its radiance: the five causes

"Dull complexion" is a symptom, not a diagnosis. There are different causes behind it, and understanding which one applies to you determines which treatment makes sense.

1. Slower cell turnover. Dead cells accumulate on the surface and form an uneven layer that scatters light instead of reflecting it. It is by far the most common cause, and also the one that responds most quickly.
2. Dehydration. Skin lacking water has a less taut surface and reflects light less effectively. This is why the complexion can appear grayish even without spots or wrinkles: the distinction between dry and dehydrated skin matters here too.
3. Oxidative stress. Free radicals generated by the sun, pollution, and smoking damage lipids and proteins, and the skin loses its visual firmness.
4. Chronic stress and insufficient sleep. Microcirculation slows down and delivers less oxygen to the surface layers, causing the complexion to turn grayish or yellowish. We discuss this in detail in the article on stress-related tired skin.
5. Accumulated sun damage. Hyperpigmentation makes the complexion uneven, and the eye interprets this unevenness as dullness.

There is an interesting finding on this last point: research on facial perception indicates that the uniformity of color distribution affects age estimation, regardless of wrinkles. It is not only a matter of how much light the skin reflects, but also how uniformly it does so.

Why antioxidants help

Skin loses its radiance when exposed to oxidative stress, linked to the action of free radicals: unstable molecules promoted by sun exposure and pollution.

Antioxidants do not brighten the skin like a highlighter would; they support its defenses against factors that make it look dull.

The ingredients to know

The most interesting active ingredient is vitamin C, an antioxidant that is ideal for reviving a dull complexion. It is often combined with ferulic acid, which stabilizes its action and helps prevent dark spots.

• Lycopene: an antioxidant carotenoid that helps counteract UV damage and a dull complexion.
• Mullein: a botanical ingredient that, according to the manufacturer's tests, absorbs part of UV radiation and returns it as visible light.
• Hyaluronic acid: retains water and keeps the skin plump; hydrated skin looks more radiant.
• Niacinamide: refines skin texture and evens out the complexion, helping counteract the marks left by blemishes.

How and where to apply

The product should be applied after cleansing and toning. The right technique is to pat it in with light movements rather than rubbing, to ensure even application without stressing the tissues.

Radiant does not mean shiny. If you have combination skin, apply the brightening serum to the cheekbones and alternate it with a mattifying treatment on the T-zone.

Products for radiance

Lycoglow Serum

Brightening serum with mullein and lycopene, to smooth the surface and revive a dull complexion.

Ferulic + HA Serum

With ferulic acid and stabilized vitamin C, it combats oxidative stress and supports collagen.

Mandelic Enzimatic Soft Peel

Once or twice a week. The enzymatic peel promotes cell turnover by renewing the surface: it is based on mandelic acid, one of the gentlest AHAs. Exfoliation is one of the treatments with the most immediate effect on radiance.

Hyaluronic Advance

Face cream with hyaluronic acid in different molecular weights, niacinamide, and Kudzu.

You can find the full range in the LeLang brightening selection.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to see a change?

It depends on the cause. If the problem is slowed cell turnover, gentle exfoliation produces a visible effect within a few days. Antioxidants take two or three weeks; accumulated discoloration takes months. That’s why it’s worth understanding what is causing the dullness before choosing a product.

Does frequent exfoliation make the skin more radiant?

Up to a point, then it backfires. Exfoliating too often weakens the skin barrier, and a compromised barrier leads to inflamed, less radiant skin. Once or twice a week is a reasonable limit for most skin types.

Can oily skin look dull?

Yes, and it’s a common case: shiny in the T-zone and dull on the cheeks. Sebum-related shine is not radiance—in fact, it often coexists with a grayish complexion caused by dehydration and uneven cell turnover.

Do I need a brightening product if I already use vitamin C?

Probably not. Vitamin C is already one of the most effective active ingredients for improving the complexion: adding a second “brightening” product with the same function does not double the result. Instead, it makes more sense to add what is missing, namely cell turnover or hydration.

Could dull complexion be caused by a medical condition?

It can. Anemia, thyroid disorders, and nutritional deficiencies can affect the appearance of the skin. If the pallor is pronounced and accompanied by persistent fatigue, the question is for a doctor, not a cosmetic product.

In conclusion

To protect the radiance you have regained, daily sun protection is essential: it shields against oxidative damage and prevents new discoloration from appearing.

Build your routine around a few targeted products, and the difference will become visible over time. It is not always obvious in the mirror which of the five causes has the greatest impact on your skin: at partner pharmacies, you can find a pharmacist who can help you distinguish between them.

Sources for this article

01 Pullar J.M., Carr A.C., Vissers M.C.M., The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health, Nutrients, 2017; 9(8): 866.
02 Lin F.H., Lin J.Y., Gupta R.D. et al., Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005; 125(4): 826-832.
03 Fink B., Grammer K., Matts P.J., Visible skin color distribution plays a role in the perception of age, attractiveness, and health in female faces, Evolution and Human Behavior, 2006; 27(6): 433-442.
04 Bissett D.L., Oblong J.E., Berge C.A., Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance, Dermatologic Surgery, 2005; 31(7 Pt 2): 860-865.
05 Manufacturer test data on mullein extract concerning the absorption of UV radiation and its re-emission in the visible spectrum.

On the website: stress-related dull skin · skin discoloration · exfoliating the skin · lycopene · radiance treatments