L'Azeloglicina®, in INCI Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, is a derivative of azelaic acid bonded to two glycine molecules. It belongs to the sebum-regulating family and is a good example of what it means to improve an already well-known active through chemistry.
Pure azelaic acid has practical limitations: to work, it requires high concentrations, produces dense formulas, and tends to degrade over time. Bonding it to glycine produces a water-soluble, stable molecule that is already active at low percentages. The azelaic component acts on sebum production and melanin synthesis; glycine, a moisturizing amino acid, offsets the drying effect characteristic of almost all actives in this category. Two problems solved in a single step.
It is suitable for combination and oily skin with post-inflammatory marks, the dark mark left after a blemish that is often more bothersome than the blemish itself. Use it morning and evening. For oiliness, the first changes appear within four to six weeks.
It works best combined with zincidone and niacinamide, with which it shares an effect on the appearance of pores: three actives that act at different stages of the same process, from sebum production to the mark left afterward. It is one of the most effective combinations for blemished skin that also wants a more even complexion.
On our blog, you can find an in-depth look atazeloglicina and how to use it on blemished skin.
