It Zincidone®, in INCI Zinc PCA, is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It combines two components with opposing yet complementary roles: zinc, a trace element involved in sebum balance, and PCA, one of the natural moisturizing factors already present in the stratum corneum.
Zinc interferes with 5-alpha-reductase, the enzyme that converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, the form that most actively stimulates the sebaceous glands: less stimulation means less sebum production. PCA works in parallel by retaining water. This is the intelligent part of the molecule: it reduces oiliness without drying out the skin, thereby avoiding the rebound effect whereby harsh sebum-regulating products ultimately cause the skin to produce even more sebum than before.
It is suitable for combination and oily skin: shine in the T-zone, visible pores, and a tendency toward blemishes. Use it morning and evening, and it works best combined withazeloglycine and niacinamide, with which it shares an action on the appearance of pores. The first changes in shine appear within three to four weeks.
The data on sebum reduction come from the manufacturer's tests, as with all patented active ingredients. One useful clarification: oily skin is a physiological condition that dermocosmetics can address effectively, whereas inflammatory acne is a clinical condition that should be assessed by a dermatologist—often alongside a well-designed cosmetic routine.
On our blog, you can find an in-depth article on how Zincidone works on oily skin.
